If you plan to start the Camino Francés in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port between November and March, there is one thing you need to know before you pack your panniers: the Napoleon Route is closed. Every autumn we get the same questions from bike pilgrims preparing their trip: can I cross anyway? What if the weather is good? Which way do I go to Roncesvalles then? Here is everything you need to know.
What is the Napoleon Route?
It is the best-known and most spectacular variant of the first stage of the Camino Francés. It leaves Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, at about 170 metres above sea level, and climbs on a narrow road, tracks and mountain paths past Orisson and the Cross of Thibault to the Col de Lepoeder, at 1,432 metres. From there it drops to Roncesvalles, at about 950 metres. That is around 25 kilometres with more than 1,200 metres of climbing, almost all of it in one long and very exposed ascent.
In spring and summer it is one of the most beautiful days on the whole Camino. In winter it is a very different mountain.
The winter closure: 1 November to 31 March
The authorities officially close the Pyrenees crossing over the Col de Lepoeder from 1 November to 31 March, a measure applied every year since 2015. If the weather requires it, the closure can start earlier or last longer. The Orisson refuge, the only place with services on the climb, also closes in mid-October and does not reopen until April.
Why is the Napoleon Route closed in winter?
- Snow and ice. Above 1,000 metres snow can arrive overnight and pile up in drifts that completely hide the route. With ice, the tracks are impassable, even more so when pushing a loaded bike.
- Fog and getting lost. The upper section is open ground with no trees or landmarks. In fog or a blizzard visibility drops to a few metres and the Camino waymarks are buried. The weather can change in minutes.
- Wind and extreme cold. The pass is very exposed. Wind chill drops sharply and hypothermia is a real risk, especially if you arrive sweaty from the climb and have to stop.
- Isolation. There are no villages or services between Orisson and Roncesvalles, mobile coverage is patchy and a rescue in those conditions is slow and dangerous for the emergency teams too.
- Real accidents. In recent years several pilgrims have had to be rescued, and some have died, after trying to cross in winter despite the closure.
On a bike the problem is even bigger: you cannot pedal in snow, pushing a loaded e-bike through snow wears you out in minutes and the battery delivers noticeably less in intense cold. However good the day looks down in the valley, the mountain decides.
The alternative: crossing the Pyrenees via Valcarlos
The good news is that there is a historic route, open all year and perfect by bike: the crossing via Valcarlos and the Ibañeta Pass. In fact, it was the traditional route of medieval pilgrims precisely because it is lower. It follows the floor of the Nive d’Arnéguy valley and then the Valcarlos valley, through beech forests far more sheltered than the Lepoeder pass.
The route step by step
- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (km 0, about 170 m). Leave through the Porte d’Espagne and follow the D933 towards Spain. The first kilometres are the easiest of the day, a gentle climb along the river.
- Arnéguy (km 8-9). The last French village. After the bridge over the Nive you enter Navarre and the road becomes the N-135. This is where the real climb to Ibañeta begins.
- Valcarlos / Luzaide (km 11-12, about 365 m). The first Navarrese village, with a bar, restaurant and shop. It is the last place with services before Roncesvalles: eat and fill your bottles here.
- Gañecoleta. A small hamlet of Valcarlos and the last inhabited place on the stage. From here the climb gets harder and steady.
- Climb to the Ibañeta Pass. The N-135 winds up through a beech forest. A sustained but very rideable gradient, especially with electric assistance.
- Ibañeta Pass (about km 26, 1,057 m). The high point of the route, with the chapel of San Salvador, the remains of the old pilgrim hospital and the monument to Roland.
- Roncesvalles (about 28 km, 950 m). A short descent to the Collegiate Church. End of the stage.
Key facts of the Valcarlos route by bike
- Distance: about 28 km by road (the walking trail is about 23 km, but we do not recommend it by bike in winter).
- Roads: D933 on the French side and N-135 on the Navarrese side.
- Climbing: almost 900 metres between the start and the Ibañeta Pass, concentrated in the last 15 km.
- Highest point: 1,057 m at Ibañeta, almost 400 metres lower than Lepoeder.
- Surface: tarmac all the way.
- Supplies: only in Arnéguy and Valcarlos. After that, nothing until Roncesvalles.
The Camino footpath via Valcarlos alternates road sections with dirt tracks that in winter are often muddy, covered in wet leaves or icy. By bike, the safe option is to stay on the road.
Tips for crossing the Pyrenees by bike in winter
- Check the forecast and the N-135 road conditions before you leave. Even via Valcarlos it can snow around Ibañeta.
- Start early. Winter days are short and you want to reach Roncesvalles with plenty of daylight.
- Dress in layers: thermal base layer, waterproof windproof jacket, winter gloves, neck warmer and overshoes. Carry dry clothes for the arrival.
- Front and rear lights and a reflective layer. The N-135 is a mountain road with traffic, sometimes narrow, and in low light or fog you need to be seen.
- Look after the battery. Keep it indoors overnight and use moderate assistance on the flat to keep a reserve for the final climb.
- Eat and drink even if you are not thirsty. Cold is deceptive, and there is nowhere to buy anything after Valcarlos.
- Respect the closure. Never take the Napoleon Route between November and March, even if the morning is clear in Saint-Jean.
Plan your Camino Francés with Bicigrino
To organise your stages and plan sections like the Pyrenees crossing, use the Bicigrino route planner. It works on your computer and you can also install it on your phone as an app, and it is available in several languages. For more detail, download our free cycling guide to the Camino Francés.
And if you need a bike, we deliver it in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or wherever you start your Camino. See bike rental in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or, if you prefer to start on the other side of the Pyrenees, bike rental in Roncesvalles.
Buen Camino, bicigrino!
