Camino Portugués desde Lisboa

🚴‍♂️ Camino de Santiago from Lisbon

700 km of history, culture and ocean

Starting the Camino in Lisbon is to bet on one of the most monumental routes of the Camino de Santiago. From the Portuguese capital, the route first moves along the Tagus estuary – flat and very cyclable stretches – and continues linking unique cities such as Coimbra, Tomar or Porto.

In Bicigrino we divided this route into 11 stages designed to enjoy: balanced distances, stage finishes in places with historical value and good accommodations.

After Porto, you can choose between the inland or the coastal route.
We recommend the coastal route: more touristic, accessible and with the incomparable charm of pedaling along the Atlantic.

A long, varied and perfect experience for cyclists looking for adventure, vibrant cities and the authentic spirit of the Camino.

the portuguese way by bicycle from lisbon

Difficulty

High

Distance

670

Stages

🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 01

Lisbon → Vila Franca de Xira
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 43.7 km
🌍 BICIGRINO.COM

🚲 Start-up logistics – Arriving in Lisbon by bicycle

Starting the Camino de Santiago by bicycle from Lisbon is a special experience, but it requires attention to logistics, especially regarding bicycles.

Being the capital of Portugal, Lisbon has a very well connected international airport, which greatly facilitates the arrival from anywhere in the world.

However, the historical and monumental area of the city is made up of narrow streets and old buildings, which makes it difficult for many downtown hotels to receive and store bicycles from transport agencies.

👉 Key recommendation Bicigrino
Whether you travel with your own bike or you have requested a rental bike, it is essential to confirm in advance with the accommodation that they can receive, store and handle it safely.

🏨 Recommended accommodations in Lisbon

In Bicigrino we have selected two highly recommended accommodations to start the Camino from Lisbon, each with different advantages:

⭐ Hotel Olissippo Oriente (4★)

📍 Parque das Nações area – Lisbon

  • Located in the modern area of the city (Expo 98).

  • Very close to the airport

  • Large and easily accessible bicycle drop-off area

  • Excellent connection to the historic center by public transportation

  • The official route of the Camino passes just a few meters from the hotel.

Ideal for those who prioritize logistical convenience and direct access to the Camino.

🏠 Fonte Luminosa Residential Guesthouse

📍 Well communicated urban area

  • More economical option

  • Very good traveler reviews

  • Possibility of reception and custody of bicycles confirmed .

  • Great advantage: subway station right in front of the door

👉 Perfect if you are looking for a functional option, well communicated and without logistical complications.

🔎 Note Bicigrino
You can choose any other accommodation, but don’t underestimate the logistics of the bikes. Always confirm before booking.

🚴‍♂️ Comienza el Camino – Lisbon by bike

And now…
👉 The pedaling begins. The journey begins.

The easiest point to find the official start of the Camino is the Sé de Lisboa (Cathedral). Whether you have been sightseeing before or have just arrived, locating it is no problem at all.

On its façade we find the first yellow arrows and official signs of the Portuguese Way.

🏛️ Historic Lisbon → Parque das Nações

We set off downhill, through cobblestone streets, with the excitement and nerves of the first day. The Camino guides us through the most authentic neighborhoods of the city, linked to Fado, with a seafaring atmosphere and ancient soul.

Little by little, the route takes us to a more modern Lisbon. Bicycle lanes appear, wide boulevards along the river and, on the horizon, the imposing silhouette of the Vasco da Gama Bridge.

👉 Those staying at Hotel Olissippo Oriente can comfortably start the Camino directly from this area.

🌉 Vasco da Gama → Sacavém – Delicate section

The arrows take us under the Vasco da Gama Bridge and lead us to an area of dirt trails and reed beds that brings us closer to Sacavém.

⚠️ Special attention at this point
When exiting a traffic circle with heavy traffic, we must:

  • Crossing with extreme caution

  • Move forward a few meters on the road

  • Pay attention to a confusing left turn to rejoin the trail.

If you get disoriented:

  • You are in a wide valley with a small river

  • Leave the houses on your right

  • Follow the course of the river

  • You will see airplanes flying over the hill (near the airport).

🌾 Trails, polygons and river walkways.

Once this area is passed, the trail advances along a winding and undulating route.

🟤 Beware of mud during the rainy season.

We alternate:

  • Sand roads with rolling

  • Asphalted sections

  • Reed areas and small villages such as Granja and Alpriate.

We arrived at Póvoa de Santa Iria, an area with a lot of traffic, and crossed an industrial park (unattractive and somewhat confusing stretch).

👉 Always look for the proximity of the river.

The reward comes in the form of a beautiful river park, with wooden walkways that accompany us along the railroad tracks and a nearby airfield.

🚆 Station crossroads – Alverca do Ribatejo

We arrived at a train station, one of the classic points of confusion on the Portuguese Way.

🔁 El Camino passes on the other side of the tracks
We must cross the station using elevators or stairs. This type of crossings will be repeated in other stages.

Already in Alverca do Ribatejo, next to the station, we find a small store to buy a drink or some food.

🌊 Final section – Alhandra → Vila Franca de Xira

We continue through urban and industrial areas to Alhandra, where we join a pleasant path along the river, marked as a red bike path.

Between jetties and river walks, the silhouette of Vila Franca de Xira appears on the horizon, recognizable by:

  • A large factory

  • A bridge across the Tagus estuary

🏁 Stage end – Vila Franca de Xira

Those who sleep in the city itself can make a detour to find their accommodation.

🏨 Recommended accommodation Bicigrino
Lezíria Parque Hotel
Located after leaving Vila Franca, on a hill to the left of the Camino, in the municipality of Póvoa.

  • Prepared for bicycles

  • Quiet and cozy

  • Highly recommended as an end of stage

💭 Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 01

It may seem like a short stage… and it is.
But it ‘s no accident.

You could try to get to Azambuja, but:

  • There are few lodging options

  • Logistics becomes more complicated

👉 We chose Vila Franca de Xira because:

  • The first day is always a time of nerves and adjustments.

  • There may be delays or minor unforeseen events

  • It is better to have a prologue stage that allows us to start with good sensations

Our philosophy is clear:
🚴‍♂️ Better to start calmly than to stress from day one.

🔧 Bicycle workshops in Lisbon

In case of need, these are recommended workshops:

🔧 E-bikelovers Lisboa
Specialists in e-bikes
📍 Parque das Nações
🌐 www.e-bikelovers.com www.e-bikelovers.com
📞 +351 919 703 043

🔧 ActionBikes Lisboa
📍 Tv. do Adro 2G, 1800-033 Lisboa

🔧 Bike Zone
🌐 https://bikezone.pt
📍 Estr. de Benfica 400, Lisbon
📞 +351 21 774 2549

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 02

Vila Franca de Xira → Golegã
🚴‍♂️ Approx. distance: 84 km
🌍 BICIGRINO.COM

🏨 Departure from Lezíria Parque Hotel

If we have stayed at the Lezíria Parque Hotel, the exit to the Camino is relatively easy, as the route passes very close to the accommodation.

⚠️ Attention to traffic
The first kilometers are on the main road, with truck traffic, so extreme caution should be exercised until reaching Azambuja.

🚆 Azambuja – Station crossing (key point)

Upon arrival in Azambuja, we must be very attentive to the train station.

👉 The Trail crosses to the other side of the tracks, so it is mandatory:

  • Enter inside the station

  • Use stairs or elevator

  • Overcoming the railway obstacle

This type of crossing will be common on the Portuguese Way.

🌾 Canals, crops and good rolling

Once the season is over, we begin:

  • By asphalt road parallel to a canal

  • Further on, along dirt tracks

We enter an extensive agricultural area, with large tomato plantations for industrial use.
The terrain is flat, fast and very rolling, ideal for maintaining a good pace.

🌊 The river levee – Long, exposed section

The route encounters a large dike containing the river, which will remain on our right for many kilometers.

🟤 Characteristics of the section:

  • Mud in the rainy season

  • High dust in dry weather

  • Alternation of dirt and asphalt

☕ Valada – Pleasant stop

Passing through Valada, without looking for it, we will cross next to:

  • A small bar

  • Recreational area

  • River beach, ideal for summer refreshment

A good spot for a short break.

⛰️ Santarém – The great tack of the day

Santarém, located on a high promontory, appears in the distance.

🔥 Hard and demanding climb
Here it’s time to sweat. There is no deception.

Once at the top, a Bicigrino recommendation is a must:

🌿 Jardim das Portas do Sol

  • Small bar with terrace

  • Stunning views of the valley

  • Excellent place to have a drink and regain strength

  • It allows to visualize all the road travelled… and the road to come…

🔀 Attention – Road Separation (Santiago / Fatima)

Santarém is a very important point on the Camino:

🚸 Until now, the signals combined:

  • 🟡 Camino de Santiago

  • 🔵 Road to Fatima

👉 Here they are definitively separated

⚠️ The bifurcation point is not well located (urban and bustling area), so it is easy to make a mistake.

👉 Clear bicigrino recommendation

✔️ ALWAYS follow the yellow arrows (Camino de Santiago)
❌ Discard the detour to Fátima

Our experience is clear:

  • It involves a detour

  • It does not provide a special attraction to the cyclist.

  • The Jacobean route is much more interesting

⚠️ Complicated departure from Santarém

The exit from the city is by a fast descent.

🚨 Be very careful:

  • Speed and signal reading do not go well together

  • If you end up on a road with a big bridge over the river, you’ve made a mistake.

👉 In that case:

  • Return to

  • Search the streets of the outskirts of Ribeira de Santarém

  • Head towards Santa Iria da Ribeira and then Vale de Figueira.

🚰 Vale de Figueira – Water and maximum care

In Vale de Figueira:

  • We climbed to a small hill

  • We cross the town through its main street

  • We found a source of drinking water (it is highly recommended to fill jerry cans).

⚠️ Sore point of navigation:

  • Turn right onto Rua do Sobral.

  • 90° turn

  • Descent into a small valley

🟤 In this area there are:

  • Closed tracks

  • Confusing crossings

  • A lot of mud if it has rained

Maximum attention so as not to get lost.

🌾 Final stretch – Azinhaga → Golegã

We continue to alternate:

  • Agricultural tracks

  • Asphalted sections

We approach Pombalinho (we do not enter, it is on the left) and arrive at Azinhaga.

⚠️ Somewhat labyrinthine streets
If we go fast it is easy to make a mistake. This trail is not as well marked as others.

From Azinhaga, already by road and in slight descent, in about 7 km we arrive at our destination:

🏁 GOLEGÃ

🏨 Recommended lodging in Golegã 🌳 Quinta dos Álamos (highly recommended)
  • Converted former farm

  • Very cozy individual apartments

  • Swimming pool

  • Breakfast option

⚠️ Disadvantage:

  • No dinner is served

  • For dinner:

    • Cycling to town (3 km)

    • O cab

🍽️ Alternative for lunch/dinner in Golegã

🍴 Café Central
Very good service
Excellent value for money
Tested and recommended by Bicigrino

Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 02

We have a long stage ahead of us, with a lot of mileage, but it should not scare us.

✔️ Keys to face it well:

  • Do not over-entertain

  • Managing the pace well

  • Save strength for the climb to Santarém

Except for that big tack, the profile is:

➡️ Mostly flat

➡️ Very rolling

If we go with our heads, the 84 km will fall without drama.

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 03

Golegã → Ansião
⛰️ Mountain stage – Very demanding
🚴‍♂️ Approx. distance: 84 km
🌍 BICIGRINO.COM

🏨 Departure from Golegã – Quinta dos Álamos

If we have slept at the recommended accommodation in Golegã (Quinta dos Álamos), we must leave the farm and, when we reach the road, turn right towards Golegã.

We crossed the city:

  • We passed two traffic circles

  • At the third traffic circle (about 3 km from the lodging), pay close attention to

👉 Here our beloved yellow arrows appear again, indicating a left turn.

From this point, the mountain begins.

⛰️ A hard, long and very mountainous stage

This is undoubtedly one of the hardest stages of the entire Portuguese Way by bicycle.
A demanding day, constantly uphill and downhill, which will make us sweat a lot to reach the end.

🚴‍♂️ First kilometers – Asphalt and constant ascent

We start the stage on asphalt, heading towards:

  • São Caetano

  • Quinta de Cardiga

The slope is slight but constant, and we go through:

  • Stony

  • Moita de Norte

  • Atalaia

There is a succession of small concentrations of houses, in an urban and residential area, always in progressive ascent.

🌲 Forest tracks – Confusing and hard stretch.

After Atalaia, we leave the asphalt and enter forest tracks.

⚠️ Complicated area:

  • Hard ramps

  • Mud and stones (very dangerous if it rains)

  • Confusing crossings

If we get distracted, it is easy to end up on the road (an option that some may prefer).

We went through:

  • Eucalyptus forests

  • Forestry operations

  • A waste treatment center

We then face a steep climb parallel to a power line.
At the top, we turn left and reach the first clear sign of civilization:

🏡 Grou Village

⬇️ Descent to Asseiceira – Workshop available

From Grou, already on asphalt, we descend towards Asseiceira.

🔧 Recommended workshop (motorcycles and bicycles)
Moto2Tshop Asseiceira
📍 Asseiceira – Tomar
📞 +351 962 948 753 (Pardal)

An important point in case of mechanical necessity.

🏙️ Tomar – Pay maximum attention to signaling (km 32)

We enter the outskirts of Tomar and advance along the N110 road.

⚠️ Be very careful:

  • We will not always be on this road

  • Signals can mislead us

We passed:

  • An elevated traffic circle over the railroad tracks

  • Tomar industrial zone

👉 Shortly after, the official road takes us off to the right, along a gently descending dirt track, with the train tracks on our right.

We cross small villages for about 2 km:

  • Casal Marmelo

  • Casal da Rosa

  • Casal das Bernardas

  • Alto do Piolhinho

With the train station already on our left, we enter the first streets of Tomar.

🚸 Urban crossroads and correct variant

Tomar is a large city, with:

  • Crosses

  • Avenues

  • Heavy traffic

👉 Extreme caution not to miss signals.

At the exit of the city there are two variants:

  • ☀️ “sun” variant → NOT recommended for bicycles.

  • ☁️ Variant of the “cloud” → RECOMMENDED (right).

Both converge further on at the medieval bridge of Peniche.

🌄 River bank and hard climb (Tomar → Casais).

From the bridge, the Camino:

  • Circulates wedged between mountains

  • With a river on our left

  • On clayey soil road (⚠️ dangerous mud in rainy weather)

Up to Casais (about 8 km from Tomar) the climb is constant and demanding.

From Casais:

  • We continue to climb

  • But already on asphalt, which makes it easier to find a more comfortable pace.

The landscape changes:

  • Forest at the beginning

  • Olivares as we gain altitude

🏡 Villages and springs – Chão das Eiras

We went through:

  • Soianda

  • We head towards Calvinos, located at the top (unavoidable climb)

We continue on an asphalt and gravel road through pine forests to Chão das Eiras, where:
🚰 We find several fountains to recharge water.

Here the Camino runs through a small valley, with:

  • Olivares

  • Higueras

A dirt road leads us to Ponte de Ceras.

⚠️ Dangerous crossing
We must cross the national road, with poor visibility. Great caution.

🌲 Last big climbs

After crossing the road:

  • We take a forest road

  • We turn left

  • We face a tough ascent through a eucalyptus forest.

We arrived at:

  • Spain

  • We descend by asphalt to Vila Verde, a village that lives up to its name due to the number of orchards and fruit trees.

Here we find a brief respite.

⛰️ Final stretch – Alvaiázere and last big climb

We address to:

  • Cortiça (km 57)

From here, uphill again towards Alvaiázere, the prelude to the hardest climb of the whole stage.

👉 Highly recommended stop in Alvaiázere

  • Small roadside bar

  • Ideal for snacking and recharging energy

Ahead of us:
🔥 Final climb of about 4 km, demanding and steady.

We arrived at:

  • Laranjeiras

  • From there, a vertiginous descent to Venda do Negro, along a dirt road.

🏁 Last effort – Arrival at Ansião

Courage, we are at the end.

We cross the asphalt:

  • Gramatinha

  • Casais Maduros

On a hill, with houses and narrow streets, appears before us:
👀 A panoramic view of the valley
🎯 Ansião, our destination.

⚠️ Be careful on the final descent

  • Forest tracks

  • A lot of loose rock

  • Fatigue can play tricks

🏨 End of stage – Ansião

After such a tough stage, it’s time for a prize:

💆‍♂️ ANSITURISMO – Accommodation & Spa
Excellent option for:

  • Rest

  • Leg recovery

  • Closing an epic day

Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 03

⛰️ Very hard and demanding stage

  • Constant mid-mountain

  • Confusing paths

  • Numerous crossings

  • Long mileage

👉 Recommended:

  • Go out with the right mindset

  • Good effort management

  • Sufficient food and water

🟡 Alternative
Those who do not want to be so demanding can finish in Alvaiázere (km 64), shortening the stage considerably.

🏨 Lodging in Alvaiázere

  • Residencial O Brás

 

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 04

Ansião → Coimbra
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 47 km
⛰️ Profile: Leg-breaker – sawtooth
🌍 BICIGRINO.COM

🏨 Recommended accommodations in Coimbra 🏨 Hotel Oslo

📍 Next to the river and train station
🔒 Good bicycle storage space
🤝 Excellent service
🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/oslo.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2

🏨 Serenata Hostel Coimbra

📍 Historic part of the city
🏛️ Old maternity refurbished
✨ Very cozy and excellent location
🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serenata-hostel-coimbra.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage

Finding our beloved yellow arrows again in Ansião should not be difficult.

We leave the town crossing a small river, either by a pedestrian walkway or by asphalt, depending on our preference. Shortly after, we cross the national road through an underpass and head towards the soccer stadium on an asphalt road.

After a few meters we start riding on a dirt road (on the right a paved road leads to the same place). About 6 km of asphalt uphill await us until we reach a dirt road in the area of Netos, from where we descend towards the vicinity of Venda do Brasil.

⚠️ Attention
Before arriving, we find a hard ramp that crosses a eucalyptus forest, a particularly delicate area with a lot of mud in case of rain.

🌲 Mid-mountain, forest and mud

We now enter a mid-mountain area, with:

  • Forests

  • Constant alternation of dirt and asphalt

  • Continuous ascents and descents

  • Frequent presence of mud in some sections

After overcoming this part, we definitively left behind the mountain ranges that surround Ansião, the same ones that made us sweat so much to arrive… and now also to leave.

⬇️ Down to the valley – Alvorge

We start a descent along the N342 towards Junqueira, to then link dirt and asphalt roads that lead us to the village of Alvorge.

🧭 Important signage detail
In this area we will observe signs with:

  • 🟡 Yellow arrow in our direction of travel.

  • 🔵 Blue arrow in opposite direction.

This is because the Fatima Road is signposted in both directions within Portugal. From Ansião, the blue signals reappear but in the opposite direction to ours.

🌾 Open valley and good rolling

After overcoming a small high point, we enter a wide and clear valley, with a much more favorable terrain:

  • Good rolling

  • Mostly top-down profile

  • Orchards, vineyards, olive groves and small farming villages

The atmosphere is markedly rural, quiet and peaceful, a stretch that is especially enjoyable after the previous harder stages.

The N348 road, quiet and with little traffic, serves as a reference to approach Alvorge, a town that is not necessary to pass through unless we need a service.

⚠️ Rabaçal – Critical Navigation Point

We pass through Casal and arrive at Rabaçal, where it is essential to pay close attention.

As we go downhill through the village, we will go fast and it is very easy to miss a detour to the right inside the village itself.

👉 Here we must leave the main road and turn right.

🔄 If by mistake we go straight on, nothing happens: after Zambujal we can take up the Camino again later on.

🌿 Riverside path – A beautiful but delicate stretch of trail

From Zambujal, by asphalt, we head towards Fonte Coberta. Once past this town, we enter one of the most beautiful and delicate sections of the stage.

🌸 A narrow riverside path, next to a stream, sometimes covered with white flowers, offers us a beautiful landscape… but also dangerous:

  • Stones

  • Roots

  • Narrow passages

👉 Bicigrino tip
Better to slow down and, if necessary, put your foot down.

This trail leads us to a wide esplanade with a farm, where we find:
🚰 Source of water to stock up.

⛰️ Gorge and Coimbriga

From the farm begins a tough climb of about 3 km, over dirt and rocks, through an impressive gorge.

The effort rewards us with:

  • Wooded area

  • Sound of water

  • An old bridge

We arrive at Coimbriga, an important Roman site with a museum and visitor center. After crossing the parking lot, we enter the urban area of Condeixa-a-Velha.

🚦 Condeixa-a-Nova – Traffic information

We access the high plateau and border Condeixa-a-Nova (we do not cross its center), but we must exercise extreme caution:

  • Traffic

  • Dangerous crossings

  • Unintuitive sections

⛰️ Last steep slopes before Coimbra

We arrive at Cernache, already in the prelude to Coimbra. From here:

  • Residential areas

  • Developments

  • Asphalt sections combined with dirt roads

We are looking forward to it:

  • 3 km ascent through a kind of natural park.

  • Fast descent to Palheira

  • New demanding climb to Cruz de Morcuços, first on dirt and then on asphalt, after crossing the highway below

This section is a real sawtooth, which will make us sweat even though we are near the end.

🏁 Triumphal entry in Coimbra

From Cruz de Morcuços we descend quickly on asphalt, passing under a Roman viaduct, until a traffic circle that forces us to climb again towards Mesura.

After this last urban slope, we reach Santa Clara, where a stop is almost obligatory:

📸 S anta Clara Monastery
Spectacular panoramic views of Coimbra.

From there we walked down cobblestone streets to the river, which we crossed over a bustling bridge. On the other side we are already in the lower and central part of Coimbra.

👉 If we sleep at the Hotel Oslo, just after crossing the bridge we must turn left towards the train station, located right next to the hotel.

Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 04

After the beating of the previous stage, this day is intended as a relative respite.

✔️ Only 47 km
❌ But don’t get complacent: the terrain is still broken and demanding.

The real reason for this shorter stage is clear:
🏛️ Coimbra deserves time.

It is one of the most beautiful and touristic cities of the entire Portuguese Way, and arriving at the right time will allow us to enjoy it at our leisure.

🔧 Bicycle workshops 🚲 Condeixa-a-Nova

JCRBIKES
📍 R. Dona Maria Elsa Franco Sotto Mayor 19B
📞 +351 910 733 399

🚲 Coimbra

Bikezone Coimbra
📍 R. O Conimbricense 66
📞 +351 239 721 511

SOS BIKE
📍 Urbanização Quinta da Várzea, lote 14 loja 7
📞 +351 919 311 431

CycleSpace
📍 R. Augusto Marques Bom Lote 95 loja B
📞 +351 912 556 745

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 05

Coimbra → Albergaria-a-Velha
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 68 km
🛣️ Road surface: Mostly asphalt
🏙️ Context: link stage, very urban at times
⚠️ Key of the day: traffic + crossroads + traffic circles (maximum attention)

🏨 Accommodations in Albergaria-a-Velha

⚠️ Bicigrino Notice (important)
Albergaria-a-Velha is not one of the best places to stop for accommodation. There are worthy options, but in general they are humble, simple and discreet.
👉 Even so, for stage logistics, it is “the least bad” in this area.
Book in advance: supply is limited.

🛏️ Main recommendation (the most “Bicigrino”)

Estalagem dos Padres (hostel / B&B type)
🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/estalagem-dos-padres.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
ℹ️ flat screen TV + private bathroom + hairdryer + toiletries + shower.

🏨 Alternative 2

Ribeirotel
🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/ribeirotel.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
ℹ️ Somewhat “old motel” appearance; acceptable treatment. Useful option if there is not much else.

🏨 Alternative 3

Hotel Alameda
🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/alameda-albergaria-a-velha.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
ℹ️ Next to gas station, roadside atmosphere. Acceptable level. ✅ Bicycles inside the room.

🍽️ Gastronomic must-have of the day

⭐ So lar do Condado Restaurant
🥩 Specialty: Brazilian style picanha menu (with espeto)
✅ Highly recommended to book and do not miss the opportunity.
📍 Rua Samouqueira, 3850-126 Albergaria-a-Velha, Portugal
📞 +351 234 527 961

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage 🧭 Departure from Coimbra: how to hook up the Camino

If we sleep at Hotel Oslo, the exit is easy: we go out to the street and walk along the large avenue that passes through the door.

If we have slept in another area, it is convenient to go down to the river and look for the train station (very visible).
📍 Reference: Avenida Fernão de Magalhães.
We advance leaving the station behind us and the river to the left until a road junction / bridge. There:

  • ️ we turn left looking for the proximity of the river and Marginal Ave.

  • we arrive at the traffic circle and crossroads with N 111-1

  • ➡️ turn right and pass through a large parking area.

From here, on asphalt and flat, we reach Predula and Adémia.

⛰️ First block of climbs: “studs” that wake up

In Adémia the first serious climb begins:

  • ⛰️ 3 km of hard asphalt climb

  • we passed through Fornos

  • we crowned in Trouxemil

We are still in an urbanized area, with small groups of houses chained together. It seems to slacken… but it doesn’t last long: we climb steeply again towards Santa Luzia, where we can already sense fields and forest.

🌲 First dirt road sections: watch out for crossroads

We reach the first dirt road, already going downhill towards Malá.
⚠️ Here there are two crossroads with no signs:
👉 go straight ahead.

We head towards Lendiosa, leaving Vimieira on the left.
🥤 We pass a bar in a green area with a picnic area, following the arrows:
📍 Via Romana II (good place to refuel).

🚉 Mealhada: train station and “the usual game”.

We arrived at Mealhada and crossed a sports area between soccer fields until we reached the train station.

🚧 The classic of the Portuguese Way is repeated:
✅ you have to cross to the other side passing inside the station.
Here it is comfortable because there are ramps (no need to carry the bike).

We go along the main street, cross a large urban park and climb towards Serdanelo.
A stretch of land through a forest of eucalyptus and pine trees brings us to Alpalhão.

🧩 Anadia and the saw tooth

We leave Alpalhão and take a road to the left that takes us on a forest track to a traffic circle ( Anadia sports area).
Then we enter on asphalt, traffic circles, and reach the center of a very dispersed population.

📌 From here on: saw tooth (steep + short descents).
We go towards Águeda (km 50 approx.), passing through:

  • Alfelões

  • Avelãs de Caminho

🍽️ Recommended stop before Agueda

✅ Very good idea to have the main meal here before the urban stress of Agueda.

🍴 Casa Queirós Restaurante
📍 R. da Eira 2537, 3780-351 Avelãs de Caminho, Portugal
📞 +351 234 741 259
🟡 It is on the main road, very close to the Camino.

🏙️ Águeda: traffic + traffic circles + long climb (delicate area)

We arrive at the valley of the Águeda river… and as always:
⬇️ we happily go down to the river…
⛰️ and when we leave it’s time to go uphill.

In a big city like Agueda, with accumulated fatigue, it gets mixed up:

  • traffic

  • confusing crosses

  • traffic circles

  • hard and long urban climb

⚠️ It is a part where you have to go with maximum concentration (do not get lost and avoid scares).

The ascent (approx. 3 km) leaves us on a plateau / high plateau. For about 6 km there is slope relief, but not stress relief: highly urbanized and industrial area.

⛰️ Pedacães → Lamas do Vouga → “postcard of the river”.

In Pedacães comes a fast descent and we gradually enter a more rural environment, but be careful: hard ramps are coming.

The Lamas do Vouga area is demanding.
Fortunately, the most serious climbs are on asphalt, following the IC2, until you reach a crossroads where a really photogenic place appears:

📸 Photo stop and a breath of fresh air
We descend steeply towards a river with a stone bridge, a beautiful backwater and a church in the background. It is almost impossible not to stop.

Then we cross the national road underneath and we have a steep ascent to Serém de Cima (yes, “de Cima” for a reason…).

🌲 Last forestry section and entrance to Albergaria-a-Velha.

After Serém de Cima we face a forest trail. On your last pass (September 2019) it was badly affected by fires, a frequent occurrence in the area.

From these mountains we descend and link with asphalt to enter Albergaria-a-Velha by wide avenues. It is a large and scattered city: everything is “at a distance”.

🔧 Bicycles and mechanical support

✅ In the first houses of Albergaria you will find a modest, but very predisposed store:

🚲 Rc Bike
📍 R. Dom Dinis nº36, 3850-037 Albergaria-a-Velha, Portugal
📞 +351 910 096 872

Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 05

📌 Long stage, with many towns and stretches with cars.

A general reflection on the Portuguese Way: it tends to stand out more for the attractiveness of its cities than for the epic scenery between them. Daily pedaling is a personal challenge, almost an “introspection”, and there are days when the terrain can seem repetitive.

The key is to program the stages to stop at places worth visiting, because that is the great tourist value of the road.

Today, the end is “practical”: Albergaria-a-Velha is not a brilliant stop, but it is a necessary link stage to connect to Porto. And, at least, the gastronomic reward here is a good one.

🛠️ Bicycle workshops 🚲 Mealhada

BiciSports
📍 N1, 3050-382 Mealhada, Portugal
📞 +351 231 107 049
ℹ️ km 25 approx. (Serdanelo area, belongs to Mealhada)

🚲 Águeda

Ride My Bike Águeda
📍 R. Joaquim Valente de Almeida, 3750-154 Águeda, Portugal
📞 +351 234 092 712
ℹ️ Road N1 at the end of the village.

🚲 Albergaria-a-Velha

Rc Bike
📍 R. Dom Dinis nº36, 3850-037 Albergaria-a-Velha, Portugal
📞 +351 910 096 872

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 06

Albergaria-a-Velha → Porto
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 67 km
🛣️ Road surface: asphalt + cobblestones (and some walking section)
📈 Profile: sawtooth (up/down), with downhill entrance to Porto
⚠️ Key of the day: traffic + crossings + traffic circles + cobblestones + a “non-cyclable” final section.

🏨 Accommodation in Porto: the important thing is not the bed… it’s the logistics of the bike.

🧳 Bicigrino Context
For many, Porto will be the grand finale if they have set out from Lisbon. For others, it will be the ideal start of the Camino, due to its international airport and ease of access.

🚲 Real problem (if you ship bikes): in historical cities it is difficult for accommodation to receive and store transport boxes.

Bicigrino key recommendation (if you start in Porto):
👉 Send the bikes directly to the official/collaborating Bicigrino point in Porto, even if you sleep in another hotel.

📍 Recommended Bicigrino Point in Porto (bike reception / assistance / logistics):
🛠️ Biclas & Triclas – Port Rent a Bike and Tours
Largo de Artur Arcos Rua da Arménia 30, R. Nova da Alfândega 108
4050-066 Porto, Portugal
📞 +351 22 099 6130

🛏️ Recommended accommodations in Porto (checked by Bicigrino) 🏛️ Condes de Azevedo Palace Apartaments

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/condes-de-azevedo-palace.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
📍
Excellent location, next to the bridge and very close to the Cathedral.
🌿 Gardens and area to leave bikes.
✈️ Airport transfer service.

🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Magnolia Porto Hostel & Suites

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/magnolia-porto-hostel.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
🏠 Several options, including hostel type.
✈️ Airport transfer.

🏨 The Rex Hotel

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/the-rex-hotel.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Good facilities for receiving and storing bikes.
🚇 Somewhat out of the center, but close to metro.

📌 Bicigrino note: Porto has a lot of hotels, but if you send bikes, make sure they can receive and store boxes. Otherwise, Biclas & Triclas.

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage 🧭 How to find the Way out of Albergaria

📍 If you remember where you ended up yesterday, perfect. If not, there is a rule that almost never fails:
look for the parent church → the arrow usually appears there.

🛰️ GPS recommended: in this way you save time and losses.

📌 If you slept at Ribeirotel, the track leaves from the door.

If you slept at another point:
➡️ look for the north zone, cross the EN1 and take direction to the residential nucleus of Senhora do Socorro.
🌿 From there access to land towards the sanctuary (on the right).
⚠️ Mud if it rains.
👉 If you hesitate because of mud: go straight on asphalt after the sanctuary and turn on the first asphalt on the left to avoid the dirt stretch.

Then:
🚆 we cross railroad tracks
➡️ we enter towards the first houses of Albergaria-a-Nova
🛣️ the road deviates from the national road through quieter areas
⚠️ ⚠️ Dangerous crossing when crossing the road again
➡️ we continue towards Lajinhas

⚠️ Realistic Bicigrino notice: a “routine” stage to Porto

🏙️ Today we will cycle through very populated and urbanized areas: residential after residential, cars and traffic almost all day long.
🎯 The prize is at the end: Porto.
📈 The profile will be a sawtooth, with the advantage that the last km fall towards Porto.

📌 Major milestones (without entering each junction). 🪜 Pinheiro da Bemposta (km 13).

🚧 Overpass with stairs to cross the national road.

🏙️ Oliveira de Azeméis (previous: hard climb)

⛰️ Before entering: 1 km of demanding climb.
🥤 Good place to drink/eat something.
📌 Cyclotourist tip: drink before thirsty / eat before hungry.

⬇️ Salgueiro (5 km later, downhill)

Afterwards, a steep area returns.

🏙️ São João da Madeira (suffocating city)

🚦 Lots of traffic, avenues, shopping areas.
🎯 Mental goal: get through it and get out.

🍽️ Arrifana (km ~33)

If lunchtime coincides, it is not easy to find the “perfect” place. You have two options:

🥪 Plan A: bring sandwich/picnic and stop where it suits you.
🍴 Plan B (recommended if you want a table): detour a bit to:
Nova Praça Restaurant
Praça Gen. Humberto Delgado 108, 3700-491 Arrifana, Portugal

⚠️ Watch out when leaving Arrifana: there is a confusing point with stairs. Pass it calmly.

⚠️ Infestas → Malaposta: the most delicate stretch for security reasons.

In Infestas, after a steep slope, we reach a crossroads:
️ cross to the left
🛣️ and take the dangerous national road for about 3 km to Malaposta.
⚠️ Be careful at crossroads. There is no improvisation here.

🍽️ If you need to refuel (km ~40), you pass in front of:
Pedra Bela (restaurant/hotel)
R. Malaposta 510, 4505, Portugal
📞 +351 256 911 338

🛠️ And here too a mechanical support comes in handy:
🚲 Grandíssima – Cultura da Bicicleta
R. Malaposta 4, 4520-606 Sanfins, Portugal
📞 +351 932 570 622
🥪 (If you feel like it, they offer sandwiches on their premises).

🧱 Malaposta → Lourosa → Moselos: cobblestones and rattling.

From here, for many kilometers:
🧱 cobblestones replace asphalt.
😅 At first it’s funny… in the end it becomes heavy if you don’t have good cushioning.

✅ Good news: the route tends to go more downhill.
⚠️ But fatigue + downhill + urbanizations = risk of “missing” a sign.

In Lourosa we again touch the N1 and cross it at several points (be careful).

🏛️ Grijó: last “nice” breath before the end of the year

Before entering Grijó, we pass under the highway.
At a traffic circle we turn left and a cemetery appears wedged between street and industrial buildings.
🌿 In front of the cemetery there is a monastery: good place to stop, breathe and recompose.

⛔ Perosinho: the last “fateful slope” (on foot)

After Perosinho comes the last major obstacle:
⛰️ 3 km uphill on a Roman road with boulders and steps
🚶‍♂️ It is not cyclable: the normal way up is walking and pushing the bike.

👉 Before you get in, if you need a bathroom or last stop, there are bars in Perosinho.

At the top:
👀 begin views of the outskirts and Porto, and we descend towards the city.

🚋 Entrance to Porto: intuition is king

When you reach a large downhill avenue with streetcar tracks and a lot of movement:
✅ no longer obsess with signs
➡️ let yourself fall following the tracks, which lead you towards the bridge.
⚠️ Be very careful with cars and pedestrians.

🌉 We arrive at the iconic Luís I Bridge:
👁️ you will see the Cathedral in the background on the left.
🎉 This is the end of the tour: now it’s time to enjoy Porto.

🏛️ If you sleep at Condes de Azevedo Palace:
➡️ after the bridge, first street on the right (you will see it on the right on the riverbank, where it delivers the bridge).

💭 Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 06

Tough link stage due to the environment:
🏙️ always between houses and cars
⚠️ national ⚠️ present almost all day
📈 constant sawtooth
🧱 cobblestones that punish

The consolation (and the prize) is enormous: Porto is a beautiful city and deserves a day of rest.
And besides, from here, especially if we take the Costa option, the road usually becomes more pleasant and with more beautiful landscapes.

🛠️ Bicycle workshops 🚲 Oliveira de Azeméis

Bike Vendas
Av. Dr. José Homem de Albuquerque
📞 +351 919 360 023

🚲 São João da Madeira

PEDALSEMPRE
📞 +351 256 197 790
Joni’s Bike Shop
R. do Barroco 23
📞 +351 256 025 598
FullBike Lda
R. Dom Afonso Henriques 1973
📞 +351 256 834 156

🚲 Malaposta

Grandíssima – Cultura da Bicicleta
📍 R. Malaposta 4, 4520-606 Sanfins
📞 +351 932 570 622

🚲 Porto

Biclas & Triclas – Port Rent a Bike and Tours
📍 R. Nova da Alfândega 108 (and surroundings indicated above)
📞 +351 22 099 6130
🟡 Main partner Bicigrino: pick-up/rental/assistance.

Gaia Bike – Bessa Leite (Specialized)
R. António Bessa Leite 1268
📞 +351 22 242 2043

Bike Zone
Via Castelo do Queijo 964 (loja 13/14)
📌 Useful if we leave along the coast towards Matosinhos.

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 07

Porto → Esposende
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 65 km
🧭 Recommended route: Coast (sea on the left)
🛣️ Road surface: bike path + boardwalks + asphalt + some urban stretch
📈 Profile: very flat, with occasional small tacks
⚠️ Critical point of the day: Matosinhos (confusing port bridge).

🏨 Accommodations in Esposende 🏊‍♂️ Hotel Suave Mar (bicigrino recommendation)

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/suave-mar.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Excellent attention to pilgrims and Bicigrinos.
🏊 Swimming pool (ideal if in season).
🚲 Good facilities for bicycles.

💶 Mira Mar Hotel (basic option)

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/mira-rio.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
📍
At the entrance of the town.
✅ Correct and more economical.

🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Hostel Eleven (budget)

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/hostel-eleven.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
🛏️ Shelter type option.

🌊 Dilemma in Porto: Coast or Interior

There are two main routes in Porto:

🌊 Coast option (the one we recommend)
✅ You go out along the riverbank, bike lanes, beaches and easy pedaling.
✅ Much more bike friendly.

🏙️ Interior Option (Barcelos – Ponte de Lima – Valença – Tui – Redondela)
✅ Monumentally powerful.
❌ But it takes you out of Porto with more traffic, cobblestones and urbanizations.
⛰️ And it also has a particularly hard and complicated section for bikes: Labruja (after Ponte de Lima).

👉 Conclusion Bicigrino: if you come by bike (and even more if you come from Lisbon), the Coast is the best decision.

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage (Coast) 🧭 Porto output: water target

📍 Take as a reference the Sé (Cathedral of Porto).
⬇️ From its viewpoint, we go down to the river.

✅ Although there are arrows, if you miss them nothing happens:
🌊 go down to the river and look for the tourist bank.

➡️ Once in front of the river:
👉 turn right and go upstream, always close to the water.

🟡 You will pass in front of the Bicigrino support:
📍 Biclas & Triclas (help and reference point)
(stop by to say hello, ask questions and confirm address if necessary).

🌅 Foz do Douro: from the river to the sea

In Foz do Douro we leave the mouth of the river and we already ride with the sea on the left.
🎯 From here on the “trick” works almost all day long:

✅ s ea always to the left + move north.

⚠️ Delicate point 1: MATOSINHOS (km 10)

Here it is time to save the port area and it is easy to lose the logic of the “sea on the left”.

⚠️ Real danger: get inside Matosinhos and lose the coast → it costs a lot to recover the route.

✅ The right thing to do:
🌉 you have to cross a gray bridge in the port, next to cranes and stevedoring area.
🛰️ With the GPS track you pass without suffering.
Without GPS: calm, traffic circles and turns, but without going farther away from the water than necessary.

Crossing it:
🔁 you make a loop, go back down towards the water and resume the boardwalk.

📍 You are already in Leça da Palmeira, beach and continuity to the north.

🏭 Leça da Palmeira → Lavra → Moreiro (km 25)

You pass by a lighthouse, and then an industrial area appears (red/white chimneys).
🚲 Even so, it rolls comfortably on cycle paths (often red pavement) and flat terrain.

In Labruges the Camino departs a little:
️ turn right and a small ascent through Lugar do Pinhal
➡️ you move away from the sea about 2 km
📍 to Moreiro (km 25), where you look for it again.

🌉 Delicate point 2: AZURARA → Vila do Conde (km 35)

In Azurara, a bridge must be crossed to cross the mouth of the river and enter Vila do Conde.

⚠️ Attention: just after passing the bridge you have to “turn back”:
⬅️ go down to some gardens on the left
🌊 look for the river bank and go along the river “towards the sea”
➡️ when you reach the sea, turn right and continue north with the sea on the left.

🛠️ Useful store in case you need it:
🚲 Bike Garage
Av. Infante Dom Henrique 520, 4480-670 Vila do Conde, Portugal
(it is next to the beach, before the marina)

🚴‍♂️ Póvoa de Varzim: the “happy” section

Here comes what we needed:
✅ comfortable cycle path
✅ cycling priority
✅ you cross an urban area without stress

Just follow north, with the sea on the left.

🔀 Vero-o-Mar (km 45): short detour to the interior

In a large parking lot with the restaurant Praia do Mestre:
➡️ turn right and then left
🛣️ you go on parallel asphalt, a little further away from the sea.

You pass through fields and greenhouses to Aguçadoura.
📍 reference: Hotel Estalagem Santo André (on the way).

Then you will touch the beach and sand again, with small houses on the right.

⛳ Rio Alto → Apúlia: golf “throws us out”.

Leaving Aguçadoura, the route turns away from the sea to avoid a golf course:
🛣️ asphalt along Rua do Rio Alto
📏 about 7 km
🌊 to Apúlia, where dunes and sea return.

🌲 Bofins Beach → Ponte de Fão → Esposende (end)

In Praia de Bofins:
⚠️ sharp right turn at the end of Estrada das Pedrinhas
➡️ by Avenida António Veiga you reach the bridge.

🌉 Ponte de Fão:
✅ you cross the Cávado River
🌾 you cross fields and a couple of traffic circles
🌊 you reach the Esposende promenade.

🎯 To reach the recommended accommodation:
🚲 follow the promenade and the bike path “playa arriba”
🏨 Hotel Suave Mar is on the right, before an old fortified building.

💭 Bicigrino Reflection – Stage 07

✅ Ideal stage for:

  • those who start in Porto (perfect adaptation)

  • those coming from Lisbon (mental and physical rest)

🌊 Flat, relaxing, with sea and beaches, and with very little sign stress:
👉 “just move north with the water on the left”.

⚠️ Only real risk: to make a mistake and leave by the inland road unintentionally.
🔁 Plan of amendment: in Rates (km 34 of the central road) there is a signposted detour to Esposende with similar mileage… but you would lose the magic of the coast.

🛠️ Bicycle workshops 🚲 Porto

Bike Zone Porto
Edifício Transparente, Via do Castelo do Queijo 395 Loja 13/14,
4100-429 Porto, Portugal
📞 +351 22 609 8411

🚲 Matosinhos

Bicicletas Elétricas | E-Bike
Av. da República 173, 4450-241 Matosinhos, Portugal
📞 +351 22 099 7417

Velo Culture – Mercado de Matosinhos
R. Álvaro Castelões loja 46 A, 4450-039 Matosinhos, Portugal
📞 +351 22 242 4790

🚲 Vila do Conde / Póvoa de Varzim

Bike Garage
Av. Infante Dom Henrique 520, 4480-670 Vila do Conde, Portugal

🚲 Esposende

PROPEDAL
Av. Dr. Henrique Barros Lima 4, 4740-233 Esposende, Portugal
📞 +351 253 966 831

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 08

Esposende → Caminha
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 54 km
🌊 General orientation: coast / sea on the left (although at times not visible)
🧱 Road surface: cobblestone + asphalt + dirt roads + punctual technical sections
⚠️ Critical points: N-13 (crossroads), Viana bridge, maze of walls, stairs, final exit avoiding the N-13
🏁 End of stage: Caminha (Praça / historic center).

🏨 Accommodations in Caminha 🥇 Design Wine & Spa Hotel (Bicigrino recommendation)

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/design.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
The best treatment of the whole Camino.
🚲 TOP facilities for cyclists (cyclotourist quality seals).
💦 Spa / water area + themed rooms.
⭐ A “prize” stage end.

🏡 Esteiro House

🔗 https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/casa-de-esteiro.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
🕰️ House with character and a spectacular collection of antiques.
🏊 Pool + family treatment.

🛏️ Caminha Hostel

🔗 https://www.facebook.com/alberguecaminha/?fref=ts
📍 Av. Padre Pinheiro 36, 4910-105 Caminha, Portugal
📞 +351 914 290 431
💶 Affordable option.

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage 🌅 Departure from Esposende: easy

🏨 If you sleep at Hotel Suave Mar: go out and link directly to the promenade and the bike path.
🌊 If you sleep in other accommodation: look for the sea and cycle north to the fort.

At the end of the walk, leaving behind the fort and its red lighthouse, you arrive at the Dunas Bar.
🪵 Here walkways and sand appear… but beware: it is only a “mirage”, it lasts only a short time.

⚠️ Cepães → Marinhas: be careful on the N-13

Soon the Camino takes you on a straight road to Cepães.
️ You go up the main street, and soon you reach the N-13.

⚠️ Dangerous crossing.
✅ You must cross the N-13 and take it to the left for a short stretch to Marinhas.

📍 In Marinhas: just past the cemetery, you will see on the right a long street with the parish church in the center.
➡️ Go up that street and look for yellow arrows between the streets.

🛏️ (Useful fact) If someone had slept at the Marinhas hostel: it is to the right of that church.

🧱 Marinhas → Belinho → Capela dos Remédios: walls, cobblestones and “boxing”.

From Marinhas you continue up narrow streets between walls, lots of cobblestones and a “corridor” feeling.
You reach a fork with a crossroads and the Capela de São João do Monte in the background.

➡️ Here, take the street on the right.

You continue north, crossing Outeiro and then Belinho (main church).
In Belinho the road surface alternates: cobblestone, some dirt, and then back to asphalt.

📍 Key reference: Capela N. Senhora dos Remédios (white).
An arrow on a post directs you to the left and then to a street on the right.

🌲 “Teleport” section: forest + river + bridge without railings

Suddenly you enter a dirt road uphill to a pine forest, with a boxed river (mini gorge).
🎥 It’s one of those stretches that begs for photo/video.

⚠️ There are large stones and a narrow bridge with no railing.
✅ Many people cross it on foot. If someone crosses it mounted… let it be with head.

🟡 Castelo do Neiva (km 10): Jacobean atmosphere and hard climb

After the bridge appears the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe and several lodges (Nausti / Castelo do Neiva).
📍 You are already in Castelo do Neiva.

You will face a sustained climb (about 3 km) to the cemetery and church of Santiago:
🗺️ monolith with map of the Camino
✝️ wooden crosses
⛪ improvised chapel of the Apostle Santiago
🖋️ In the church there is usually the possibility of sealing.

Then the Camino makes a “strange gesture”: it skirts, descends, and enters a rocky and technical area (trialerilla).
✅ Patience: it is demanding but not very long.

🏛️ Mosteiro de São Romão + Chafé: WC and authentic bar

You get out to the asphalt and arrive at the surroundings of the Mosteiro Beneditino de São Romão de Neiva.
🚻 There are WC and picnic area.

In Chafé, next to the cemetery and the church, you have a perfect bar to refuel:
Bar São Sebastião (authentic village atmosphere, highly recommended for a snack).

🔻 Towards Viana do Castelo: downhill… and “don’t let yourself be fooled”.

You go up Anha (2 km) and there are already views towards Viana do Castelo.

⚠️ On the way down, the arrows try to take you to a broken road with big stones:
Bicigrino recommendation: go down by road (safer) and link up with the arrows afterwards.

The entrance to Viana is through a strange area of unfinished urbanization/industrial park.
You continue down towards the river and the bridge.

⚠️ Viana do Castelo Bridge: narrow crossing, no hard shoulder

🌉 Delicate crossing: traffic, little space.

✅ Clear advice:

  • crosses pedaling with rhythm and caution,

  • integrating you into the flow of cars,

  • better than pushing walking.

As you cross, your goal is the marina and the tree-lined avenue by the river.
Then, along Rua Gago Coutinho, you enter the historic center and its square.

🧭 Viana exit: forbidden direction and “walking” arrows.

Here appears the classic Jacobean problem: signage designed for walkers.
You will encounter “strange” streets, some of them in a forbidden direction.

📍 Reference point: statue of Fray Bartolomé de los Mártires (man on mule/donkey).
Then, through the area of Igreja de São Domingos, park, climb and alley leading to a tunnel under the tracks.

From there you leave through a residential area towards Areosa.

🧱 The “labyrinth of walls”: the tonic at the end

Suddenly an arrow pulls you down narrow alleys, cobblestones and high stone walls.
If you miss a junction, don’t panic: 1 km more and you’re back to hooking arrows.

Appear:
💧 streams, mills, small waterfalls
Capela de Boa Viagem + Quinta de Boa Viagem
🪜 a stretch with stairs that forces you to get off the bike.

🚉 Carreço: church, tracks… and recommended stop (lechón)

You arrive at Carreço crossing the tracks carefully, skirt the cemetery and cross the church square (Sra. das Graças).

🍽️ Bicigrino stop HIGHLY recommended (off the road 2 minutes):
Restaurante do Sérgio (leitão / suckling pig)
Rua, Tv. Padre Domingos Afonso do Paco 18, 4900-278 Carreço, Portugal
📞 +351 258 836 507

⛰️ Last slopes and arrival at Vila Praia de Âncora (km 34 approx.)

After Carreço, about 20 km remain.

🔺 About 5 km climb through forest, with hard ramps near the Convent of São João de Cabanas.
Then asphalt, crossroads (Cruceiro do Vale) and descent to Âncora and Vila Praia de Âncora.

⚠️ In Vila Praia de Âncora: traffic and confusing crossroads.
✅ If you get lost: look for the church and find arrows again.

You go down the pedestrian street, cross the tracks and go out to the promenade.

🌊 Final coastal stretch: already smells of Caminha

You pedal along a comfortable lane by the sea.
In the background you will see a very recognizable conical mountain: it is the silhouette that accompanies Caminha.

📍 Attention: there comes a point where you must go through a tunnel under the tracks.
When you leave, you go through the village on the main street and arrive at a traffic circle.

⚠️ Last important warning: DO NOT enter through the N-13.

The signs “invite” you to continue on the national road (faster but dangerous).

✅ Bicigrino recommends:
➡️ take the parallel secondary road, Rua de Pombal, much safer.

You go straight on and you end up in a wide square with church and town hall:
🏁 Caminha (center).

📍 The Design Wine & Spa Hotel is right here, in the heart of the end of the stage.
🛏️ If you go to the hostel: go straight towards the port, turn right and look for Av. Father Pinheiro.

💭 Bicigrino Reflection

Varied and beautiful stage, with a surprising mix:
🧱 “infinite” walls and cobblestones,
🌲 forests with rivers,
🏛️ a city with character as Viana do Castelo,
🌊 and a coastal end that already puts you in border mode.

🏨 If you sleep at Design Wine & Spa: it’s literally a prize.
💦 Spa, sauna and real rest for body and bike.

🚤 Ferry / boat to cross to Spain (VERY important)

Tomorrow we have to cross the river to enter Spain.

⚠️ On Mondays, the ferry does NOT operate.
On this day, cab boats are used (bikes + cyclists, usually 4 by 4).

✅ Always book in advance (especially if it is Monday).
📞 Taxi Mar: +351 915 955 827

🛠️ Bicycle workshops 🚲 Viana do Castelo

Viana Cycles
R. Ramalho Ortigão 161, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
📞 +351 258 847 376

🚲 Caminha

myBike
R. Conselheiro Miguel Dantas N10, 4910-131 Caminha, Portugal
📞 +351 962 798 310

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 09

Caminha → Vigo
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 65 km
🌊 First half: spectacular coast, bike path and promenade (very enjoyable)
⛰️ Second half: up and down + labyrinthine areas (Baiona → Nigrán → Vigo)
⚠️ Critical points: ferry, stretches in forbidden direction (“walker” signage), urban crossings, Nigrán “mega-climb” and chaotic entrance to Vigo
🧭 Bicigrino recommendation: very useful GPS track on the Baiona-Vigo section.

🏨 Recommended accommodations in Vigo 🥇 Hotel Hesperia Vigo (bicigrino recommendation)

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hesperia-vigo.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Chosen for relatively easy access from the Camino.
📍 Clear reference: next to Balaídos stadium (Celta).
🧠 Vigo is sparse and getting in/out “without getting lost” is not trivial; this hotel avoids hassles.

⭐ Hotel Alda Estación Vigo

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/alda-estacion.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Good value for money.
🚉 Useful if you want to be located by the train station (very practical for those starting out in Vigo).
⚠️ Not close to the Camino, but easy to locate.

🚤 Caminha departure: ferry and border

📍 The first thing is to get to the jetty and cross the river to A Guarda (Spain).

⚠️ Very important:

  • Sundays: there may be few departures.

  • Monday: NO ferry service.

✅ Alternative: cab boat (max. 4 bicigrinos + bicycles)
📞 Taxi Mar: +351 915 955 827

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage 1) A Guarda: “walking mode” (forbidden streets and directions)

As soon as you disembark you will see the Jacobean monoliths and the first signs.

Reference: Antigo Colexio dos Xesuítas (large and old building).
➡️ You have to go up the street that goes up next to it.

Then you go along the slope of Santa Trega / Santa Tecla through a short forest section:
🌲 eucalyptus trees, curves, a stretch of dirt, some stairs and a fountain.
You come out to the asphalt near the sports area (soccer field).

⚠️ Warning: in A Guarda there are several points where the Camino takes you in a forbidden direction.
✅ Bicigrino advice: patience + low speed + maximum attention.

2) Coastal section A Guarda → Oia → Baiona: the great gift of the day.

After crossing the center and leaving towards the Capela da Sra. da Guía, there is a high viewpoint overlooking the sea.
You go down towards a wash house and reach a beautiful stretch:

🌊 Rock path by the sea
⚠️ At some points it is not cyclable → you have to get off the bike, but it is very worth it.

Then you go uphill on track to return to an excellent cycle path:
🚲 Very comfortable bike/walking path:

  • about 10 km to Oia

  • and then many kilometers of easy riding towards Baiona

📍 Oia (km ~20): the Oia Monastery is a must stop (photo yes or yes).
☕ In front there is usually a bar for refreshments.

🍽️ Extra useful (if it fits the schedule):
Hotel Restaurante Glasgow (if hungry or in need)
Estrada Baiona a Guarda Nº9, 36309 Oia – 986 36 15 52

3) ⚠️ The “trap” deviation to the mountain: NOT to climb

Arriving in the direction of Baiona, you will see an official detour that aims to take you up the mountain.

Bicigrino recommendation (very clear):
➡️ Ignore it and continue along the bike path by the sea towards the Hotel Talaso Atlántico and along the coast.

This “mountain” detour is an unrewarding waste of strength for cyclists.

4) Baiona: follow signs even though it may seem absurd.

Baiona is beautiful (port, fortification, promenade).
🍺 Here it is a good idea to eat / drink something because then it gets complicated.

⚠️ El Camino makes you: enter the center, go up to a crossroads/monument and come back down.
Although it may seem nonsense…

✅ Tip: follow it.
If you “stay for the ride” it’s easy to end up misplaced and get lost in the road junction on the way out.

📍 Key point: Cruceiro Stma. Trinidade and then downhill without falling to the parallel national road.

5) Baiona → Nigrán: labyrinth, traffic circles and more forbidden directions.

From here begins the “stressful” section:
🔁 turns, fast descents, crossroads, traffic circles, narrow streets.

You arrive at Santa Cristina de Ramallosa and the Ramallosa Bridge:

  • you cross the modern bridge

  • on the right you will see the old Romanesque bridge (quick photo)

⚠️ Another tricky traffic circle after the bridge:
✅ turn right and then left (watch out for signs) to follow the correct route.

6) Nigrán: the “mega-climb” (yes or yes)

In Nigrán appears the big wall of the day:
⛰️ long and steep climb (~5 km).

There are two philosophies:

  • ✅ O fficial road: more broken and more “rural/urban mixed”.

  • PO-552 road: more “at a pace”, more constant

In your text, the guide follows the official route, but here goes the practical advice Bicigrino:

👉 If you are short of strength, going up PO-552 may be more efficient.
👉 If you want loyalty to the Camino, follow arrows with maximum attention (there is a key junction with a dirt road at a 90º angle).

7) Section recommended by Bicigrino: road to avoid the mountain “hell”.

When you reach PO-552 and you are already very punished, the smart part of the day appears:

Bicigrino recommendation:
From Orxás (km ~50), go along PO-552 about ~5 km (flat/downhill) avoiding a very hard mountain loop.

📍 Signal to re-engage Path:

  • search for the area of Coruxo

  • after passing its church (on the same road), you find again the route and signs to enter Vigo.

8) Entrance to Vigo: chaotic, up and down… and end next to Balaídos.

After Coruxo:
⚠️ detours, industrial warehouses, highway underpasses, dirt tracks and housing developments.

The city “swallows you up” without you noticing it:
🏘️ alleys, orchards, tunnels, walls, big fences (car factory area), and finally…

🏁 You reach a wide avenue where the final reference appears:
Balaídos Stadium (Celta de Vigo).

🏨 How to get to the Hesperia Vigo (very easy from here)

➡️ Head towards the stadium
➡️ At its height: turn right
➡️ Go straight ahead and take the first street on the right
➡️ At the back: Hotel Hesperia Vigo

If you are going to another hotel and want to continue the Camino: you can continue to the port/center area (more accommodations), but it is already a demanding urban stretch.

🛠️ Assistance and recommended workshop in Vigo

🚲 Que Bici (Concept Store Specialized)
Av. de Castrelos, 186, 36210 Vigo – 886 11 75 38

💭 Bicigrino Reflection

This stage is two stages in one:

🌊 Postcard start: ferry + coast + bike path + Oia + Baiona… a marvel.
⛰️ Final de traca: labyrinth, ramps, forbidden direction, and a large and dispersed city.

That is why our advice is to sleep in Vigo and “split” the mental effort of crossing it between today (entry) and tomorrow (exit). It makes it much more bearable.

🔧 Bicycle workshops (if needed) A Guarda

Insitu Ciclismo – Donantes de Sangre 28, 36789 – 986 19 94 65
Garaje Flores – Rúa Galicia 91 (Local A), 36780 – 986 61 08 07

Baiona

La Pedaleria – Av. Ramón y Cajal 14, 36300 – 686 45 45 07

Nigrán

Ciclos Palacios – Rúa Manuel Lemos 16, 36370 – 986 35 02 51

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🟡 Portuguese Way by bicycle – Stage 10

Vigo → Caldas de Reis
🚴‍♂️ Distance: 63 km
🌿 Tonic of the day: leaving Vigo is hard (urban + turns + forbidden directions), but then comes a beautiful stretch: Ruta da Auga + Senda Fluvial do río Tomeza (entrance to Pontevedra of 10).
⚠️ Critical points: labyrinthine exit from Vigo, two possible routes (hillside vs. port), “non-cyclable” section of Ponte Sampaio, key crossing to the Senda Fluvial (left!).

🏨 Recommended accommodations 🟠 Intermediate stop (if it becomes long). Pontevedra – Hotel Virgen del Camino (km ~40)

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/virgen-del-camino.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Good wildcard if the day is choking or if you want to split a stage.

🟣 End of stage: Caldas de Reis 🥇 Balneario Acuña (Bicigrino recommendation)

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/balneario-acuna.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Huge gardens, good space for bikes, outdoor hot springs/pool, top location.

Hotel Roquiño

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/roquino.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Modern, well attended, right in the center.

Albor Hostel

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/albergue-albor.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Economic, good deal, place to store bikes.

O Cruceiro Hostel

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/albergue-o-cruceiro.en.html?aid=1656934&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2
Inexpensive, well serviced, room for bikes.

🚴‍♂️ Description of the stage (“clear and usable” version) 1) Departure from Vigo: return to the “exact point”.

📍 If you sleep at Hesperia Vigo: look for Balaídos and return to the point where you left the Camino:
➡️ gray fence of the factory + alley.

Start the day with:

  • traffic circle + park (you enter through a gated access)

  • dirt trails next to creek, going uphill

  • several wooden walkways/bridges
    ⚠️ Note: there is a typical point of loss: you come out onto the road with a ramp in front… but the Camino continues to the left, down a few meters, along a riverside path.

Then:

  • tunnel to pass underneath

  • you go up between houses, modern church, and arrive at intersection with traffic lights.

  • pedestrian type” streets appear with no passing through, stairs, continuous turns, etc.

Bicigrino advice: in Vigo, if necessary, get off and ride 200 m on the sidewalk. Better that than a scare.

2) Vigo has 2 layouts: hillside (views) or port (alternative).

📌 Your guide describes the “pretty” layout:

  • you are gaining altitude on the hillside

  • views of the estuary and the Rande Bridge (a must see photo).

🧭 If by mistake you go by the alternative route “port-sea”:

  • nothing happens: before Rande they turn you to the right

  • brutal ramps (possible to push)

  • link in A TRAIDA and you return to the common route.

✅ Key recommendation: GPS / track here helps a lot.

3) La Ruta da Auga: 5 km as a gift up to Redondela.

You arrive at a stretch very frequented by runners and walkers:
🌳 Ruta da Auga
⬇️ 5 km downhill, forest, views, very fun.

🏘️ Redondela: here the two variants of the Portuguese Way (coast and inland) meet, and you will see more pilgrims.

Passing through Redondela (without getting lost)
  • St. Andrew’s Church in the antechamber

  • you pass under the train tracks

  • take the N-552 to the right and go down to the traffic circle: left to the center
    ✅ Typical stop to refuel: a bar with a small terrace at the entrance to the center.

Inside Redondela:

  • bustling and narrow streets

  • hostels (Casa da Torre / A Casa da Herba)

  • you go uphill, you pass under a large railway bridge

  • small traffic circle + road in front: right… and then diagonally left to exit through the sports area next to the river.

Km ~20 of stage when leaving Redondela.

4) Arcade → Ponte Sampaio: postcard + “NOT CYCLABLE” section.

You arrive at Arcade, cross and continue towards Ponte Sampaio.

Ponte Sampaio Bridge: photographic stop guaranteed.

⚠️ Just past the bridge comes the hard part:

  • immediate rush

  • detours through the village of Souto

  • and the famous “NON CYCLABLE” section begins:

    • creek + start of ascent

    • slabs/stones “old roadway” type (as steps)

    • will have to push the bike with patience.

Important: here the alternative by road is not clean (big detour). Better to assume: “short, push and go”.

Then it gets better:

  • cross the road, follow the trail (steep slope but already cyclable)

  • asphalt towards Bergunde

  • beautiful forest track and, at last, a more fluid area to ride.

5) KEY junction: entrance to Pontevedra by the Senda Fluvial (LEFT!)

You reach a large road with an entrance sign to the Concello de Pontevedra, near Capilla de Santa Marta.

📍 At a STOP, a few meters away, you will see 2 signs of the Trail at the foot of a large tree:
✅ LEFT !
🌿 You enter the Tomeza River Fluvial Path: the highlight of the day.

The best:

  • beautiful, twisted, very pleasant river trail

  • pass under highway and railroad tracks

  • you come out onto the asphalt and in a curve you arrive at the Bar El Peregrino (recommended stop, it usually coincides with lunch).

6) Pontevedra: arrival at the center (and possible end of stage “B”).

From Bar El Peregrino:

  • traffic circle straight

  • diagonal left next to rusty candle type statue

  • reference: train station

  • long street parallel to the main avenue (note: sometimes “forbidden direction”)

You pass through:

  • stairs (can be skirted)

  • Hotel Virgen del Camino (if you stop in Pontevedra, it is a good option).

  • square and arrival at the heart of Pontevedra:
    Virgen Peregrina + terraces (well-deserved beer).

Then you continue towards the old area (Praza da Ferraría, Calle Real, etc.) to leave towards Caldas.

Note: your text is cut here, just when you enter the old zone. If you paste me the rest (Pontevedra → Caldas), I’ll close the whole stage keeping the same style.

💭 Bicigrino Reflection
  • Vigo puts you to the test: turns, traffic, prohibitions, chaos… but you get through it.

  • The day gets much better with: Ruta da Auga + Senda Fluvial del Tomeza (one of the most beautiful of the Portuguese Way by bike).

  • The technical “toll” is Ponte Sampaio: he pushes and that’s it; he doesn’t deserve to take a fall out of pride.

  • Caldas de Reis is a perfect ending: thermal baths + rest.

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🚴‍♂️ Camino Portugués by bicycle – Stage 11 Caldas de Reis → Santiago de Compostela

📏 Distance: 43.8 km
⛰️ Profile: initial gentle ascent + final continuous ascent
🛣️ Terrain: rural asphalt, river paths, forest tracks and urban sections
🧭 Recommendation: use of GPS highly recommended in urban accesses and final crossings.

🛏️ RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATIONS – SANTIAGO Hospedería San Martín Pinario (RECOMMENDED BICIGGRINO)

Located a few meters from the Cathedral and the Plaza del Obradoiro.
It is the official Bicigrino point in Santiago de Compostela:

  • 🚲 Delivery and pick-up of rental bicycles

  • 📦 Receipt and management of bicycle transportation.

  • 🏨 Excellent option for overnight stay after arrival.

  • 🍽️ Inexpensive restaurant with pilgrim’s menu

A historic place, comfortable and perfectly adapted to cycle pilgrims.

🏨 Hotel Compostela

Good value for money, very good location next to the historic center and close to the airport shuttle.

👑 Parador of the Catholic Monarchs

For those who want to celebrate the arrival in style. Located in the Plaza del Obradoiro, next to the Cathedral.

🗺️ STAGE DESCRIPTION 🏁 Departure from Caldas de Reis

From the Balneario Acuña we leave towards the main street and take the Rúa Real, a pedestrian boulevard with stores.
We cross the Roman bridge over the Bermaña River, pass by the San Roque Chapel and briefly touch the N-550, from which we leave immediately to go out into the countryside.

⛰️ First kilometers: gentle and steady climb

The first 7 km run in progressive and very bearable ascent, gaining about 170 m of elevation gain.
We alternate between dirt tracks and narrow country roads through the Bermaña valley, passing through O Cruceiro and Carracedo.

⚠️ Attention at some road crossings: limited visibility.

🌿 Forests and agricultural valley

After overcoming the first high point, we enter a beautiful downhill stretch through trails between forest and murmur of water.
Vineyards and cultivated areas appear until we reach a small bar-shop(Autoservicio San Miguel), a good place for a coffee.

We continue between villages, stone walls and quiet roads towards Pontecesures.

🌉 Pontecesures and access to Padrón

We cross the Ulla River over the bridge that gives its name to the town.

⚠️ The exit from the bridge is a bit confusing:
As soon as you cross the bridge, turn carefully to the left to access a square under the road and continue through interior streets.

From here we enter one of the fastest and most comfortable parts of the stage:
a perfect plain between the Ulla and Sar rivers, surrounded by cornfields.

🏘️ Padrón

We arrive at Padrón by a very pleasant river walk.
We pass by the food market, the tree-lined promenade and the statue of Camilo José Cela.

💡 Bicigrino tip:
This is an excellent place to eat before tackling the entrance to Santiago and enjoy the arrival without haste or hunger.

We leave Padrón next to the church of Santiago and pass near Iria Flavia, with its imposing church and cemetery.

🚦 Road sections and final climb

From km 20 the stage changes its tone:
after leaving the river valley behind, constant climbs begin, without big ramps but long.

We alternate:

  • short stretches of N-550 (with traffic),

  • well thought-out detours on rural roads,

  • villages such as A Escravitude, where we leave the road for good.

⚠️ Special attention at dangerous crossings and inconspicuous detours.

⛰️ Milladoiro and anteroom of Santiago

The climb continues to O Milladoiro, already on the outskirts of Santiago.
Here the environment becomes more urban, with tall buildings and local traffic.

From the top we start a progressive descent, crossing highways and train tracks through underpasses, alternating parks, housing developments and trails.

🏙️ Entry in Santiago de Compostela

The Camino guides us through wide avenues, parks and historic streets.
We go up Rosalía de Castro Avenue, skirt Alameda Park and enter the historic center.

Finally, along Rúa do Franco, we arrive at the Plaza del Obradoiro.

✅ END OF STAGE – SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

🎉 Arrival at Plaza del Obradoiro
Excitement, photos, hugs… challenge achieved.

🚲 Recommended bicigrino point:
👉 Hospedería San Martín Pinario
Delivery of rental bicycles, transport management and accommodation, all in one place and a few meters from the Cathedral.

🧠 REFLECTION ON THE STAGE

A relatively short, but very complete stage.
The combination of fast sections, constant ascents and a demanding urban entrance makes for an emotionally intense day.

We recommend:

  • 🍽️ arrive in Santiago already eaten,

  • 🕒 don’t be in a hurry,

  • 📸 enjoy the arrival calmly.

The Camino ends… but the experience remains forever.

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📅 Alquiler de bicicletas