🚴♂️ French Way of St. James, from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.
800 km of cycling route through history, the Middle Ages and the most incredible legends of pilgrims, warrior monks, cathedrals and castles…
Most of the bicigrinos start their journey in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or Roncesvalles, and from there the road takes them through places full of history such as Pamplona, Puente la Reina, Logroño, Burgos, the Castilian Plateau, León, and finally, the green Galicia, with its mountains and villages full of tradition and spirituality. There are more than 700 kilometers that combine adventure, culture and a very personal connection with this ancient route.
Doing the Camino by bike is to live the freedom of going at your own pace, exploring landscapes that often go unnoticed by those who go faster or slower. It is not necessary to be an athlete: with good preparation, common sense and the right equipment, it is an accessible challenge. The bicigrinos enjoy varied stages, landscapes that change day by day and a network of hostels and services designed for those who roll towards Compostela.
More than a simple route, the French Way is an experience that transforms. Each day brings new stories, cities with centuries of history, typical foods and the company of other pilgrims who, although they come from different worlds, share the same destination. And when you arrive at the Plaza del Obradoiro, in front of the cathedral, the emotion of having arrived is so profound that it stays with you forever.
Difficulty
Media
Distance
890 Km
Stages
STAGE 01 - Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Pyrenees, epic and the true beginning of the Camino
⚠️ Important note
It may seem a short stage due to its mileage, but neither its toughness nor the beauty of the landscape should be underestimated. It is a day that deserves to be approached with a conservative attitude, without the pretension of going further and enjoying the environment calmly.
There are several reasons why we recommend not to pass Roncesvalles on this first day:
🔧 Bike adjustments
As it is the first day, it is usual to need small adjustments.
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If the bicycle is a Bicigrino rental, we will not yet know it completely.
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If it is our own bike, there may be some misalignments due to transport.
Forcing this stage can cause mechanical problems that may end up negatively conditioning the entire Camino.
🧳 Logistics and accommodation
Getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port by public transport can be complicated and accommodation is often scarce due to high demand.
👉 Bicigrino tip
A highly recommended option is to stay two nights in Roncesvalles and do this stage as a loop:
leave from Roncesvalles with a small bag (tools and some food), descend by road to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port -all downhill-, visit the town and then face the climb by the mountain road.
This way we avoid carrying saddlebags on the hardest climb and enjoy the stage with more tranquility.
🚴♂️ The stage
The beauty of this first day manages to blur its hardness.
The imposing Pyrenees, its novel landscapes and routes that seem designed to dream on the bike make the effort pass into the background. Cycling through a territory that breathes cycling in every corner is the best possible gift to start the Camino.
It is undoubtedly one of the most demanding stages of the French Way by bicycle, but that fact loses importance as soon as the look is lost in a scenery that seems created exclusively for this sport.
Those who leave from the beautiful Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, in France, and choose to follow the original pilgrim’s way, just let themselves be guided by the signs, which will gradually become regular travel companions.
🌫️ Orientation
You should follow them very carefully, since on foggy days it is easy to get disoriented.
There is a basic rule that never fails:
👉 if you arrive at a junction and you don’t see any signs, you probably made a mistake at the previous one. In that case, do not continue and go back until you find them.
🟨 Bicigrino Council
🌧️ In winter or in adverse weather conditions, local authorities may close access by the original road and force you to take the Valcarlos alternative, which is closer to the road and considerably safer.
If the weather is very unfavorable or the passage is forbidden, the ascent by road towards Valcarlos will be the most advisable option.
🏔️ Pilgrims’ Way – Route de Napoléon
If conditions permit, the pilgrims’ road -the option we always recommend- offers a strong welcome: the first two kilometers will definitely wake up your legs.
Although asphalted, this narrow route invites you to look at the sky under the name of Chemin de Compostelle or Route de Napoléon.
💧 Hunto
Three kilometers later we reach the small village of Hunto, the last point with some services before Roncesvalles.
👉 We recommend carrying water here.
At the exit, the slope becomes steeper again and the landscape transforms into a real high mountain environment.
⛰️ Napoleon Pass
After linking up with an asphalt road towards the Virgen de Biakorre, a demanding ascent of about 12 kilometers begins until Bentartea, also known as the Napoleon Pass, is crowned.
Shortly after, at a crossroads, the Lepoeder pass appears on the right, already in Spanish territory.
It is common that at this point the pedaling stops completely:
the mind goes blank and the eyes open wide.
The landscape that unfolds before you is a true work of natural art. Just to contemplate it is worth the trip.
⬇️ Final descent
From here we take the road that descends to Ibañeta, where we can contemplate the monument to Roland next to the Chapel of the Savior, before rolling down the road that leads to the Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles, one of the most emblematic and symbolic places of the Camino de Santiago.
STAGE 02 from Roncesvalles to Puente La Reina
Forests, Pamplona and Alto del Perdon
🚴♂️ Start of stage
After stamping the credential in Roncesvalles, we start the day with a pleasant descent towards the valley of the Arga River, crossing postcard villages such as Burguete and Espinal. At the end of the descent, the terrain becomes progressively steeper again until reaching the start of the Mezkiritz pass, where the legs no longer respond with the same joy as at the beginning of the day.
⛰️ Altos de Mezkiritz y Erro
We pass through Bizkarreta and Lintzoain, saving our strength to face the demanding Erro pass.
The reward comes in the form of a fun descent, somewhat technical and very enjoyable, that winds through a spectacular beech forest to reach the historic Puente de la Rabia.
This bridge opens the gates of Zubiri, where many cyclists decide to finish the stage. Five kilometers further on is Larrasoaña and, very close to the route, the small village of Akerreta, with its well-known hotel, an excellent lodging option for those seeking tranquility and rest.
🌲 F rom Zubiri to Pamplona
After leaving Zubiri behind and crossing the Rabia Bridge again, we return to a path that passes by a magnesite factory and the farmhouses of Ilarratz and Ezkirotz. We cross Larrasoaña and border the Arga River along a local road until we reach Akerreta.
From here, the Camino enters a forest in the direction of Zuriain, where the mud can increase the difficulty in case of rain. After crossing a bridge, we connect with an asphalted section that leads us to a detour to the left towards Irotz. By then, we will have already passed the first ten kilometers of this intense day.
🏞️ Entrance to Pamplona
We continue through Zabaldika to a recreational area, close to the metropolitan area of Pamplona, where it is essential to pay attention. Here we find two options:
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❌ A tough climb up the hillside, which we do not recommend.
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A placid path next to the river, straight ahead, which leads us along a pleasant river walk to the Magdalena Bridge, the gateway to Pamplona.
From there we headed towards the walls and the old town, accessing through the Portal de Francia. The yellow arrows guide us to the Cathedral and then along the route of the San Fermin running of the bulls, one of the great attractions of the Navarrese capital.
🟨 Bicigrino Council – Monte del Perdon
⚠️ Extreme caution on the ascent to Monte del Perdón if rain appears.
The clayey mud in this area can generate enormous difficulties.
In case of bad weather, we recommend leaving Pamplona by the NA-1110 road in the direction of Astraín, from where you can face the ascent in a safer way or link up with an asphalted section directly to Uterga, where you will find the arrows of the Camino again.
⛰️ Alto del Perdón
Leaving behind the old town and the Town Hall square, we cross the university campus with the Alto del Perdón already on the horizon. After about five kilometers we reach Zizur Menor and Zariquiegui, from where the final ascent begins between windmills and the well-known monument to the pilgrim.
At the top, the landscape invites you to stop and take out your camera:
📸 on one side, part of the Camino already traveled;
📸 on the other, the valley that opens up towards Puente la Reina.
⬇️ Descent and end of stage
The descent is beautiful but dangerous, with plenty of loose rocks. Those looking for a safer and more comfortable descent can opt for the asphalt until a crossroads where we must turn right towards Uterga.
After crossing Uterga and Muruzábal, we recommend following the signs indicating “Eunate”. They will lead us to one of the great jewels of the Camino de Santiago, a visit that is certainly worthwhile.
The day approaches its end, passing through Óbanos and, finally, Puente la Reina. At the entrance of the village we find the hostel and Hotel Jakue, one of the best rated by Bicigrino, both in hostel and hotel type accommodation.
STAGE 03 from Puente la Reina to Logroño
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Medieval bridges, wine and lands of La Rioja
⚠️ Important note – Departure from Puente la Reina
Leaving Puente la Reina, those who have decided to proceed by road should exercise extreme caution until Mañeru. In this section, the road as such disappears, and the only possibility to reach the town is a dangerous segment of highway, with the real risk of being trapped in it with no way out.
👉 Clear recommendation Bicigrino: follow the road, at least until Mañeru.
🚴♂️ Start of stage
The third day begins with a stone bridge, an open valley and a route of constant ups and downs.
We leave Puente la Reina crossing its majestic medieval bridge and, after a few meters, we take a track to the left that, among family orchards next to the river, gradually leads us away from the town. Soon we reach a hard climb that leads us to a high point with views of Mañeru. We’ve only been going for five kilometers, but we will have warmed up by now.
🏛️ Cirauqui and the Roman road
Three kilometers later we reach Cirauqui, a beautiful village perched on a hill that forces us to climb up to its square. We cross the town center through a tunnel and exit through its famous Roman road, one of the most emblematic stretches of the Camino de Santiago.
This beautiful start of the stage continues along dirt roads, a short stretch of asphalt along the NA-1110 and a medieval bridge that crosses the Salado River.
🌾 Lorca, Villatuerta and Estella
Between vineyards and stony paths we reach Lorca. A slight descent leaves us next to a monument in memory of the Canadian pilgrim Mª Catherine Kimpton, who died in this same place.
We then enter Villatuerta, crossing the national road through a tunnel. We ride just a hundred meters along the NA-1110 to leave the town and take a track that ascends to some water tanks, pedaling next to the hermitage of San Miguel, which is not accessible.
From there we descend towards Estella, a town closely linked to cycling. The descent is pleasant and smooth.
🍷 Irache and the Fountain of Wine
We leave Estella by a steep urban climb and, already on the outskirts, the Irache Monastery appears. Just before we find the famous Wine Fountain, with a tap installed by the winery that offers wine free of charge to pilgrims.
In addition, a webcam connected to the winery’s website allows family and friends to see you live as you pass through this unique spot.
🔀 Towards Los Arcos
Leaving the monastery behind, we find a new detour, perfectly signposted, towards Los Arcos. There are two options:
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➡️ By Luquin: 16.8 km
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➡️ Through Azqueta: 17.9 km ✅ (recommended option)
We choose Azqueta, from where we continue to the next jewel of the day: the Fuente de los Moros, a medieval fountain from the 13th century, located just before entering Villamayor de Monjardín.
From here on, 20 easy kilometers await us, mostly downhill or flat, among wide cereal fields, until we reach Los Arcos.
⛪ Sansol, Torres del Río and Viana
We leave Los Arcos through the cemetery area. The absence of difficulty is maintained up to Sansol and Torres del Río. From this point on, the route becomes more complicated with a constant up and down through small ravines that cross the road.
👉 Bicigrino recommendation
From Torres del Río to Viana, it is much more logical and comfortable to go by road.
The original route forces you to chain unnecessary ramps and continuous crossings of a winding road.
We access Viana after crossing a couple of traffic circles.
🍇 Last kilometers to Logroño
Leaving Viana we can already sense Logroño in the distance, following the banks of the Ebro River. There are only about ten kilometers left, so it’s time to enjoy the last treats of the day.
At the exit of Viana we can stop to visit the hermitage of the Virgen de las Cuevas. Afterwards, cereals and vineyards accompany us on a gentle descent, where it is advisable to moderate our speed so as not to get lost when we pass by Felisa’s house, the one with the figs, responsible for our next stamp.
👉 If it’s in season, don’t forget to ask him for some figs… and take the opportunity to refill your water.
🏁 End of stage in Logroño
The final stretch takes us to the Ebro River and, after crossing its stone bridge, we enter the heart of Logroño.
The old town and its mythical Laurel and San Juan streets, authentic temples of wine and tapas, are waiting for us to put a perfect finishing touch to a long, varied and full of history stage.
STAGE 04 from Logroño to Belorado
Rioja vineyards, Nájera and cereal fields
(Ending in Quintanilla del Monte – passing through Nájera)
🚴♂️ Departure from Logroño
Being able to start a stage in Logroño is a real luxury that should be taken advantage of.
Those who decide to do the Camino by road should be extremely careful when leaving the city in the direction of Navarrete, as it is a dangerous stretch of highway.
Bicigrino recommendation: look for the Urban Park of La Grajera and follow the yellow arrows to Navarrete, passing next to the reservoir and overcoming a first ascent.
🏛️ Navarrete and San Juan de Acre
When crossing the N-120 and the A-68, we will know that we are on the correct route when we pedal past the remains of the old pilgrims’ hospital of San Juan de Acre, whose uniqueness lies in the fact that its façade was moved to the local cemetery.
After about twelve kilometers, we begin to caress Navarrete, which welcomes us at the top of a hill. Here we find one of the most beautiful altarpieces of the entire Camino, so it is worth stopping and visiting the church.
🍇 Windy and vineyard roads
On leaving Navarrete we continue briefly by road and, shortly afterwards, we head back through vineyards and along dirt roads towards Ventosa, where the main headquarters of the Red de Albergues is located, based at the San Saturnino hostel.
🛏️ It is an excellent reception point, both for Bicigrinos and bicycles.
We continue along dirt tracks until we face a slight ascent, where some curious mounds formed by pilgrims with river pebbles catch our attention.
🏞️ Nájera
From the top we can already see our next big goal: Nájera, which is only eight kilometers away from us in a pleasant descent.
We enter the town and leave it behind after stopping at the Monastery of Santa María la Real, one of the great monumental landmarks of the Camino de Santiago.
Then it is time to tighten legs and arms to overcome a demanding slope, before facing a long plain that leads us to Azofra.
⚠️ Important Notice – Mud
From Azofra we descend into a small valley that, almost ironically, seems to watch us knowing what is coming next.
🌧️ Be careful with the mud on this stretch if it has rained.
In case of rain, it is best to turn off at Azofra along the road that connects this town with Santo Domingo de la Calzada, thus avoiding very complicated areas for the bicycle.
⛳ Cirueña and open landscapes
The Camino becomes demanding, with a slope that becomes steeper than usual, although it is benevolent at the end of the effort: a fountain awaits us at the top, perfect for refilling water bottles and regaining strength.
After refreshing ourselves, we resume cycling to ride along the edge of a golf course and enter Cirueña. With about 44 kilometers already in our legs, we access one of the most spectacular sceneries of the French Way by bicycle.
📸 This is probably where the most photographs are taken daily of the entire tour: the cameras are smoking.
🌾 Cereal fields and Santo Domingo
From this point on, the stage runs through a frame that could well serve to decorate your living room table or your bedroom wall. The huge wheat fields, combined with winding roads, are a real treat for the eyes.
After a long descent, the Camino leads us to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, when we have already covered about fifty kilometers.
We leave the town behind crossing the historic bridge over the Oja River and we enter a seductive landscape, where the well-known Cruz de los Valientes (Cross of the Brave) stands out.
🔀 Grañón and Jacobean villages
Shortly thereafter, a common question arises:
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🛣️ Go to Grañón by road (1.9 km)
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🌿 Go on the road (3.2 km)
👉 O ur recommendation: move away from the asphalt and head to the town by land, enjoying an environment more in keeping with the spirit of the Camino.
From Grañón we continue on through Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, Viloria de Rioja and Villamayor del Río, linking small towns full of history and Jacobean tradition.
🏁 End of stage – Belorado
The day concludes in Belorado, with a highly recommended lodging option in the rural house La Aldea Encantada, located in Quintanilla del Monte, just one kilometer from Villamayor del Río.
🛏️ The access is signposted and is an excellent alternative for those looking for a quiet, cozy and charming end of the stage.
STAGE 05 from Belorado to Burgos
Montes de Oca: a good initial climb and a fun up and down.
🌾 Belorado, Tosantos and cereal fields
Belorado and Tosantos are the first two villages of this stage, which starts at dawn among cereal fields and initially advances through a simple and rolling terrain. Little by little we link small towns like Villambistia, Espinosa del Camino or Villafranca Montes de Oca, while the open landscape accompanies us without difficulty.
⛰️ Puerto de la Pedraja – Montes de Oca
The profile clearly changes with the arrival at the Pedraja pass and the entry into the Montes de Oca, where the day begins to get tougher.
The hardness is quickly perceived: when passing by a concrete wall, the terrain begins to push backwards and makes it clear that it is time to work here. Although the start of the ascent is narrow, the path soon widens, without ever easing the average gradient.
Further on, the effort becomes somewhat more bearable as we enter a beautiful forest of oaks and ferns, which leads us to an area of constant ups and downs, especially enjoyable for MTB lovers.
🍎 Descent and San Juan de Ortega
A stretch of wide track, surrounded by pine trees, warns us that the descent is near. In this area a curious fruit and water stand has recently been installed, attended by a person who is close and very friendly to the pilgrims.
👉 It’s worth stopping, saying hello… and thank you for the gesture.
Shortly after we arrived at San Juan de Ortega, an enclave full of history and spirituality.
✝️ Agés and Atapuerca
We leave San Juan de Ortega by road in the direction of Santovenia de Oca, although we soon return to a dirt road next to a wooden cross. We cross an old railroad trench and pass by another large cross before reaching Agés.
From there we cycle along a local road that leads us to Atapuerca.
As soon as we leave the town behind, we must take a road to the left. A rocky climb awaits us, where it is not uncommon to have to take your foot off the pedal. Although we have covered just over 30 kilometers, this section is demanding and can be choking.
At the top we find a third wooden cross and numerous fences that delimit a military area.
🏙️ Entry in Burgos
From here, the Camino smooths out again in the direction of Burgos, crossing Villalval, Cardeñuela Riopico, Orbaneja Riopico and Villafría.
The entrance to the provincial capital is initially through an industrial zone, with numerous traffic lights, sidewalks and traffic. A somewhat overwhelming stretch that, however, is fully compensated when one of the most impressive cathedrals in the world appears before us.
Since recently there is a much more pleasant option to enter Burgos: follow the course of the river, through a comfortable path that leads directly to the historic center, avoiding the industrial area.
👉 It is the option we recommend without hesitation.
🏁 End of stage – Burgos
Take advantage of this walk through the historic center of Burgos to regain strength, enjoy its gastronomy and recover supplies.
The city deserves it.
And your legs, too.
STAGE 06 from Burgos to Fromista
🚴♂️ Comfortable and progressive exit
The best thing about this stage is that we leave Burgos on a bike path that takes us away from the city and gradually introduces us to agricultural roads. These lead us to Villalbilla de Burgos, when we are just under 24 km from the end.
Under a huge viaduct we cross the highway underneath and head towards Tardajos and, barely two kilometers later, to Rabé de las Calzadas. From the top of a small hill comes one of those moments that brighten up the day: a spectacular view of Hornillos del Camino.
📸 It’s a good time to stop and take out the camera.
An entertaining descent takes us directly to the village, making us forget for a few minutes the accumulated effort. As we enter Hornillos, the landscape opens up completely and we are surrounded by a vast wasteland of cereal fields. Wherever you look, wheat invades everything.
🌾 Moorland, shelters and traditional stage ends
After a new ascent, San Bol appears, an enigmatic refuge located about 150 meters from the Camino. Shortly after we reached Hontanas, one of those villages that seem to emerge from nowhere in the middle of the moor.
⚠️ Important notice – mud
If in Hornillos the sky threatens rain, it is highly recommended to look for an alternative road and avoid this section. In muddy conditions, the road becomes a real trap and can cause us to lose a lot of time. When water appears, this is one of the most complicated sectors of the entire French Way.
🌅 F rom Hontanas to Castrojeriz: start of the big day
A valley of cereals takes us away from Hontanas at the beginning of the second part of the day. We advance along a path and a small local road without traffic, which makes pedaling safer, until we reach the magical arch of the convent of San Antón.
📷 Obligatory stop to save one of the most iconic images of the Camino.
Along the same road we reach Castrojeriz, a town steeped in history and Jacobean monuments. This stretch is especially rewarding and compensates for the wear accumulated in the previous stages.
⛰️ Alto de Mostelares: key decision
At the exit of Castrojeriz rises, motionless and defiant, the Mostelares pass.
🔀 Two options
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🚵♂️ Original route: hard climb, especially demanding with mud, and fast descent that requires maximum concentration.
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Alternative by road (recommended if there is mud or you don’t have a MTB): turn right towards Castrillo Mota de Judíos, continuing towards Itero del Castillo and Itero de la Vega.
Both options converge when crossing the bridge with traffic lights over the Pisuerga River, on the border between Burgos and Palencia.
Palencia lands and arrival at Frómista
Just after passing the bridge, we take a dirt road to the right to continue the French Way. Just 300 meters later we arrive at Itero de la Vega, the first Palencia village of our journey through these flat lands.
The next points of the route are Boadilla del Camino and, finally, Frómista, with the Canal de Castilla accompanying us on our right, bringing calm and beauty to the final stretch.
End of stage in Frómista, one of the great landmarks of the French Way, perfect to rest, recharge your batteries and enjoy its heritage and pilgrim atmosphere.
STAGE 07 from Fromista to Sahagun
The Plateau: endless straights and power management
📌 About the stage ends
We often remind you throughout this Official Bicigrino Guide, and we never tire of insisting: the proposed stage ends are not exact, but recommended.
Depending on your planning, your physical level or even the weather conditions, the stops may vary from those suggested here.
👉 In this seventh stage, an excellent alternative to the proposed end is Calzadilla de la Cueza, where the Hostal Camino Real is located, with a very good offer of accommodation for pilgrims and an interesting gastronomic variety.
🚴♂️ Canal de Castilla and first kilometers
Just before reaching the second town of the day we ride through a photogenic area of locks, the last really interesting point before Carrión de los Condes. From here, the Camino runs for many kilometers parallel to the main road, passing through towns without special attraction.
🏛️ Villalcázar de Sirga is the great exception. Here we find one of the most beautiful churches of the entire French Way: Santa María la Blanca, whose portico is worth a leisurely visit.
⚠️ Carrión de los Condes: traffic attention
Only five kilometers separate Villalcázar de Sirga from Carrión de los Condes, a town that we will leave following the yellow arrows next to the monastery of San Zoilo.
🚧 In this section it is important to exercise extreme caution: there are several dangerous crossings in a very busy area, especially as we approach the abbey of Benevívere.
🌾 E ternal straight line and water management
From here we face an interminable thirteen-kilometer rocky straight that leads us directly to Calzadilla de la Cueza.
☀️ If we do this stretch in summer, it is very likely that we will exhaust our water reserves, so it is essential to have previously loaded water bottles.
Leaving Calzadilla behind, we join the N-120, where we must take a parallel path that leads us down gentle slides to Lédigos, and then to Moratinos, known for its curious cellars dug underground.
💨 In this sector, if the wind decides not to become our worst enemy, the greatest difficulty will be simply to carry more than 80 kilometers accumulated in the legs.
🏁 Entry into León province and end of stage
San Nicolás del Real Camino marks the end of the province of Palencia. Shortly after, Sahagún welcomes us to the province of León.
🙏 Before arriving, the stop is mandatory at the hermitage of the Virgen del Puente, where the commemorative arch that marks the exact halfway point of the Camino de Santiago is located. A symbolic place that deserves to stop, take a deep breath and become aware of the journey.
🛏️ Recommended accommodation
For overnight stays, one of the best options is the Viatoris Hostel and Hotel, ideal for both traditional pilgrims and bicigrinos looking for rest and good service after a long and demanding day.
STAGE 08 from Sahagun to León
León, heart of the Camino and strategic stop
🏛️ León has it all
León is a monumental city: its imposing cathedral, the Parador de San Marcos, the Royal Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, the legend of the Chalice, its wines, its tapas, the bars in the Barrio Húmedo and a gastronomy that invites you to stay.
Do you want more reasons? There are.
If we have left Roncesvalles or Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, here we are in the middle of the Camino, the exact halfway point of our adventure. León is a perfect place to plan a short stage, rest, regain strength and prepare the body for what comes next: the Montes de León, O Cebreiro and the expected entry into Galicia.
🚴♂️ Meseta, wind and smart choice
After leaving the Cea River behind, our route continues along the Real Camino Francés, as the other variant is full of cobblestones and would become a real torture for our already punished bodies.
🔧 Your bike will also appreciate it, getting rid of unnecessary vibrations that crush its structure.
For the next few kilometers, trees accompany us on the left and the road on the right.
💨 If the wind decides to appear, this stage can turn into something like a little hell, so it’s best to start the day with optimism… and patience.
In order not to disturb pilgrims on foot, it is best to ride on asphalt on this stretch. The road is narrow and, in addition to cyclists, we are pilgrims: education and coherence above all.
📍 Burgo Ranero and Mansilla de las Mulas
Eighteen kilometers later we arrive at El Burgo Ranero. After another nineteen kilometers we reach Mansilla de las Mulas, passing through the well-known section of the arbolitos.
It is in Mansilla where the two variants of the Camino meet again, unifying the route once more.
From here we cross a stone bridge and continue along a farm track parallel to the road, which guides us to Villamoros de Mansilla and Puente de Villarente.
🚦 Entry into León: chaos and guidance
You don’t need to be a savant to know that León is nearby: the cars, the gas stations and all the typical decoration of the entrance to a big city announce it. In our progress we pass through Arcahueja, Valdelafuente and Puente Castro.
To enter León we descend along the highway to the first avenues, where chaos reigns.
⚠️ The lack of clear signage can make us lose a lot of time, both at the entrance and at the exit of the city.
Here the Camino is marked with bronze arrows embedded in the asphalt, very difficult to follow on a bicycle.
🧭 The most advisable thing to do is to trust our orientation and, above all, ask the locals.
🎯 Clear objective: the Cathedral of León. There, we made contact again with our beloved yellow arrows and continued adding heritage and emotions to the trip.
If we have made a mess to get in, to get out it will not be less.
👉 The solution is usually simple: ask for the Hostal de San Marcos. From then on, everything comes together again.
STAGE 09 from León to Rabanal del Camino
Decisions, Hospital de Órbigo and the beginning of the mountains
🚦 Leaving León: patience and orientation
If to enter León in the previous stage we made a mess, to leave it will not be less. We saved ourselves from this little madness by asking for the Hostal de San Marcos. Just after we crossed the bridge of San Marcos and left the city through avenues and streets towards La Virgen del Camino, but not before saving the train track and a stretch with a lot of traffic and slope.
⛪ Arriving at the church of La Virgen del Camino, we can finally say that we have left León. And what’s to come… not bad either.
🧭 Páramo variants and villages.
Because of the business that the Camino brings, many towns dispute that the route passes through them, with signs that are sometimes erased and redrawn as appropriate.
👉 Bicigrino recommendation: opt for the variant on the right, closer to the national road, but more direct to Hospital de Órbigo and with a slight descent that is appreciated.
On the way we cross Valverde de la Virgen, Villadangos del Páramo and San Martín del Camino, until we reach Hospital de Órbigo, where we have to decide again.
🔀 Hospital de Órbigo: choose your path
As soon as we leave Hospital de Órbigo we have two clear alternatives:
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🛣️ A path parallel to the highway
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Another one, on the right, directly towards Villares de Órbigo.
We recommend the second option, which is much more pleasant and peaceful.
If you choose this variant, just before the San Toribio crossing, almost arriving in Astorga, you will find David, who for years has set up a real oasis on the Camino. It offers fruit, juices, advice and words of encouragement to pilgrims.
👉 Say hello to him for us if you stop by.
👑 Alto de San Toribio and arrival at Astorga
After this special point we reach the top of San Toribio, a place that offers spectacular views: Astorga, the Montes de León and the Cantabrian Mountains unfold before us. For a few minutes, we will feel like the real kings of the place.
Then it is time for a somewhat steep descent to San Justo de la Vega. We are about 13 kilometers into the stage when we cross the railroad tracks over a footbridge specially prepared for pilgrims.
🏛️ Astorga welcomes us with its Plaza Mayor, streets full of history, Gaudí’s Episcopal Palace and its splendid cathedral. It is worth stopping and enjoying.
⛰️ Mountains begin: Maragatería and Rabanal
Leaving Astorga, the shadows of some impressive giants can already be seen on the horizon. There awaits the Cruz de Hierro, one of the most exciting points of the entire Camino.
🪨 Tradition of the Camino
Don’t forget to bring a stone from home. As tradition dictates, you may leave it on the Iron Cross as a promise, penance or personal symbol. Of course, you’ll have to earn it first: you can’t get there without suffering a little at the pass.
Long before reaching this point, the terrain begins to slope progressively, passing through Murias de Rechivaldo and entering the Maragatería region, famous for its cocido maragato.
From here, the slope will not stop increasing, although the ascent becomes bearable thanks to a wide track, at least until the crossing of Santa Catalina de Somoza. We head towards El Ganso and finally reach Rabanal del Camino.
🛏️ Recommended stage finish
Rabanal is an ideal place to rest before facing the big mountain challenges. Those who do the French Way by bicycle find here a very special place: the Albergue El Pilar, an authentic bicigrino sanctuary, perfect to regain strength at the foot of the mountains.
STAGE 10 from Rabanal del Camino to Herrerias de Valcarce
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Iron Cross, Bierzo descent and O Cebreiro gates.
⛰️ The great initial ascent
We leave Rabanal del Camino and, almost without transition, we face a climb of 8.5 kilometers parallel to the road. For this reason, many cyclists choose to do it on asphalt, although the road is in good condition.
At the height of Foncebadón, the ramps already make themselves seriously felt in the legs, so it is not a bad decision to complete this section on foot. To be smart is also to be cautious.
🪨 Cruz de Hierro – 1,504 m
Here we fulfill one of the most symbolic traditions of the Camino: leaving a stone, which we should have brought from home or picked up in the previous stage. Mythology says that with this gesture we ask for protection for the rest of the journey, or we leave behind weights, promises or personal burdens in this magical corner of the Camino.
⬇️ Historical descent to El Bierzo
From the Cruz de Hierro, we will make a quick descent to Manjarín, where the hermit Tomás maintains a hostel in the purest medieval style. From here we have about 15 kilometers left to complete the first part of the day.
Before, we must overcome a steep slope that takes us up to 1,510 meters of altitude, followed by a long descent of 24 kilometers, with Molinaseca as the point of arrival.
⚠️ In this section a cyclist died, so it is not recommended to go down the original path. It is essential to have the brakes in perfect condition and to exercise extreme caution.
During the descent we pass through villages of great beauty in the Bierzo region, with stone houses and wooden porches, such as El Acebo or Riego de Ambrós. A steep descent finally brings us to Molinaseca, where, if we arrive in summer, we can take a dip in the natural pools of the river, in a simply spectacular setting.
🔧 Ponferrada – mandatory review
Ponferrada is only five kilometers downhill from Molinaseca. After such a long and intense descent, it is highly recommended to check the brake pads.
🔧 If you notice them worn out, it is best to change them in one of the Bicigrino affiliated stores in Ponferrada, as mechanical services will be much scarcer later on.
In Ponferrada stands out its Templar castle, perfectly preserved and protagonist of one of the most recognizable postcards of the Camino de Santiago.
📍 Important fact
In Ponferrada you reach kilometer 200, the minimum required to be able to obtain the Compostela by bicycle.
🌿 Bierzo valley and route to Villafranca
We leave the Templar Ponferrada crossing the bridge over the Sil River and advance through the orchards of Sacramento. We pass through Compostilla, and continue on asphalt roads – simpler but less romantic – to Columbrianos, Fuentes Nuevas and Camponaraya.
Here we finally resume our beloved MTB trails, after passing by wineries and a rest area. We moved away from houses and cars to feel the pure countryside under the wheels again.
🍷 Cacabelos
With just over 20 kilometers traveled, it is almost obligatory stop in Cacabelos, where we recommend the restaurant Moncloa, famous for its mencía wine and its delicious empanada de batallón.
👉 Do not forget to ask for your stamp.
We cross the town along its main street until we cross the bridge over the Cúa River, next to the Sanctuary of the Virgen de las Angustias, with a hostel on the right.
⛪ Villafranca del Bierzo and the Gate of Forgiveness.
We continue along the shoulder of the N-VI, in slight ascent, to Pieros. Two kilometers later we take a dirt road that leads directly to Villafranca del Bierzo and its magnificent church, famous for the Puerta del Perdón.
📜 Legend has it that pilgrims who arrived here without the possibility of continuing the Camino – due to illness or other causes – obtained indulgence by crossing this door.
🛏️ In Villafranca also stands out the hostel La Piedra, very appreciated by the bicigrinos for its attention and comfort.
🔀 Key decision before O Cebreiro
We leave Villafranca crossing a bridge overlooking a beautiful castle. Shortly after, an important fork appears:
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🚵♂️ Variante de Pradela: with hard ramps, only suitable for very fit cyclists.
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🚗 Roadside trail (recommended): more accessible, well protected from traffic.
If we opt for this second option, we follow the Valcarce river and pass through Pereje and Trabadelo.
⚠️ Attention here: many pilgrims make a mistake trying to climb to O Cebreiro by the national road, which causes unnecessary kilometers and a detour to Piedrafita, which is not in our plan.
👉 Correct route: after passing the gas station, take the road that appears on the left, always in the direction of Las Herrerías and Vega de Valcarce.
Thanks to this choice, the climb is on a narrow and beautiful road, between streams and vegetation, very enjoyable on the bike.
🏁 Strategic end of stage
In stages like this, where the big climb is at the end of the route, we recommend sleeping at the foot of O Cebreiro to face the climb the next day with renewed strength.
🛏️ Recommended accommodations in Las Herrerías
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Paraíso del Bierzo Rural Tourism Center
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Casa Lixa Hostel, recently opened and already well known for its excellent facilities and treatment.
👉 It is essential to book in advance, as supply is limited and it is common to find everything full.
STAGE 11 from Herrerías de Valcarce to Sarria
O Cebreiro, green Galicia and the jewel of the valley of Samos
🍽️ First course only for the brave
As we have decided to leave the difficult ascent to O Cebreiro for this stage, the menu starts off strong. If your French Way did not include the early climb to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, this will be the highest altitude of the entire route.
🚴♂️ The stage begins in Las Herrerías de Valcarce, if we have spent the night here. From the first meter, the road begins to itch looking at that blue that can be sensed up there. The climb is deceptive: the beginning is quite gentle and, if we get into a good rhythm, we will reach the La Faba crossroads without excessive suffering, where the percentage becomes more serious.
👉 At this junction it is highly recommended to opt for asphalt. The dirt road is designed for pilgrims on foot and requires getting off the bike on several occasions due to roots and steps.
☕ Laguna de Castilla
In Laguna de Castilla, the last village in the province of León, it is a good time to stamp your credential and have a hot coffee at the hostel-bar La Escuela. We may think that the worst is over… but there is still a demanding stretch where our heads can play tricks on us.
🏔️ O Cebreiro – 1.330 m
Finally we reach the top of O Cebreiro, where we find a monument with the European map of the Camino de Santiago. The views over Galicia are breathtaking.
⛪ In the hermitage the well-known replica of the chalice is preserved: it is worth paying attention to the legend explained in the church.
Galicia changes everything
Already in the green and immense Galicia, the landscape is completely transformed: nature rules, cows become cars and trees become buildings. The route becomes an eternal up and down that takes away strength from the legs, but gives postcard landscapes.
The Alto de San Roque (1,270 m), with its large statue of the pilgrim, and the Alto de Poio, which will squeeze our reserves a little more.
⬇️ Descent to Triacastela
The descent is fun.
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The more cautious will be tempted to go down by road.
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The most daring will choose the dirt road.
👉 O ur recommendation: go down the dirt road, with caution and without rushing. It is a beautiful descent and suitable for everyone, always respecting the pilgrims on foot.
🍖 Triacastela
We cross Triacastela through a narrow street and almost unintentionally we pass by a terrace with a bar, the Complexo Xacobeo.
👉 If it’s time to eat, we highly recommend a stop to taste its famous churrasco.
🔀 Choose variant: Samos or San Xil
With more than 30 km already in the legs since the start, it’s time to decide:
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❌ San Xil (quickly discarded).
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✅ Samos (the chosen one)
We will enter a 9 km journey through a beautiful valley, one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire Camino.
⚠️ Attention: we leave Triacastela by a road on the left and we may think that everything will be asphalt and ugly (mistake). At about 4 km, on the right, the signs take us on a steep descent into a deep forest.
Here begins a stretch that can only be defined as “National Geographic”: a dreamlike landscape that leads us to Samos, with the finishing touch of its impressive monastery.
🛣️ From Samos to Sarria
We cross Samos and continue along the road until a curve where, on the right, the Mesón Pontenova appears. Just in front of us we take the official road again, entering a network of rural tracks -asphalt and dirt- of about 12 km, leading us away from the road and civilization.
The two variants of Triacastela (San Xil and Samos) converge in the small village of Perros. Shortly after, already descending, we pass San Mamede and in about 5 km we reach Sarria.
🏁 End of stage in Sarria
At the entrance of the village is the hostel A Pedra, which also has a pension, excellently attended by José and Marta.
In the center, the hostel Los Blasones offers a real haven of peace, where you will always find Tita.
🧭 Bicigrino Note
Climbing O Cebreiro can be done:
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🚴♂️ On asphalt, without getting off the bike if you are in good shape.
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🚵♂️ By land, assuming that you will have to set foot on the ground and share the route with many pilgrims.
Many choose the road… and it’s a shame to miss out on this cycling paradise.
STAGE 12 from Sarria to Melide
Leg-breaking Galicia, Portomarín and the octopus as a reward
⛰️ Demanding start and new layouts
The day dawns complicated, because as soon as we get on the bike a steep climb awaits us to leave Sarria. From here and practically up to the gates of Santiago, we must pay attention to the new variants introduced after the thorough revision of the Camino carried out by the Xunta de Galicia.
We will find detours marked as “alternative route”, which usually barely deviate from the original route and do not involve major differences in terrain or mileage.
The good news is that this outing takes place on a leafy path, among beeches, pines, oaks and bushes, which makes the effort much more bearable.
🌲 Trails, villages and kilometer point 100
Before reaching Barbadelo and Rente, we enter the road punctually, alternating small villages and landscapes that are a real prize. In some sections we even cross streams over improvised stone bridges, in a continuous mix of dirt and asphalt tracks.
After passing Brea, we find the 100th kilometer point, a symbolic place where pilgrims on foot already secure the Compostela.
From here, we share the Camino with the inevitable cow dung, accompanied by its unmistakable aroma, and we take the opportunity to take pictures with the Galician hórreos, already omnipresent.
⬇️ Descent to the Belesar reservoir
In Vilachá, approximately at kilometer 15 of the stage, we begin a steep descent towards the Belesar reservoir.
⚠️ Pay close attention at this point: it is a labyrinthine and confusing area, where many Bicigrinos have gotten lost. Downhill and at a good pace it is easy to miss some yellow arrows.
In addition, a narrow historical passage of the Camino through a trench has been recovered here. It doesn’t matter if we follow the original or the alternative route: the important thing is not to get lost.
🏛️ Portomarín
Thus we reach the reservoir and the majestic Portomarín, which observes us from the top of the hill with its imposing and famous church.
🚴♂️ As we are not walking, and unless we are very virtuous with the MTB, it is better to go around by road to access the church square, avoiding the climb of non-cyclable stairs.
The old Portomarín was buried under the waters of the reservoir. The new one was built on top to avoid repeating history, dismantling the original church stone by stone to raise it again in its current location.
⛰️ The great forgotten ascent
After leaving Portomarín a hard climb of about 8 km to the top of Hospital awaits us. It is a climb that is almost never talked about, but for its long, constant and monotonous character it has nothing to envy to the Cruz de Hierro or O Cebreiro.
🔀 You can climb both the original path and the road, which run parallel.
👉 Bicigrino recommendation: do not complicate and climb directly by road up to the traffic circle at the top.
After crossing the bridge, be careful: soon after, on the right, there is a narrow road shared with a dirt track. Here we will advance comfortably, mostly downhill, to Palas de Rei.
🌄 Towards A Coruña
In Palas de Rei we are already at kilometer 47 of the stage. Three kilometers later we reach the Pambre River, with an easy and pleasant descent thanks to the asphalt.
At the end of the descent we turn left and pass through San Xulián, Pontecampaña and Casanova, very close to the border between the provinces of Lugo and A Coruña.
Along a stretch with remains of ancient Rome, we reach Leboreiro, cross a photogenic bridge and pass through the picturesque village of Furelos. After a last climb, we finally reach Melide.
🍽️ End of stage in Melide
We arrived without major problems, although with our legs well punished and our minds already set on the final prize:
👉 the octopus of the mythical and traditional Pulpería Ezequiel.
💥 Leg-breaking stage
You go up, down, up, down…
Galicia gives us a beautiful scenery, but also an endless succession of slides that gradually sap our strength. You may feel like Hermida at first, but you will almost certainly end up paying for it.
Do not underestimate this stage: there are real climbs, but what is most punishing are the continuous changes of pace.
🌧️ And if the rain appears … better to follow the original path and not waste time looking for roads.
STAGE 13 from Melide to Santiago de Compostela
The dream day, the end of the adventure
❤️ The most exciting stage of the Camino
It is the most exciting stage of the French Way. That dream of reaching Santiago de Compostela, which has accompanied us throughout the adventure, awaits us today at the end of the day, which began in Melide.
We have been pedaling for eleven days and, now that the end is near, we are invaded by conflicting feelings: the illusion of fulfilling the challenge and the inevitable sorrow that something so intense will come to an end. First France, then Spain. Hundreds of kilometers, dozens of climbs and descents, landscapes that have given us goose bumps. Motivation overflows from the first meter of a stage that is unlike any other. It is noticeable in Melide… and it is noticeable again in Raído, one of the first locations of the day.
🌲 Galician forests, villages and toboggans
We enter a forest that leads us to the hamlet of Parabispo and the village of Boente. It is here where we start the first descent, which leaves us on the banks of a river and begins the eternal Galician slides. As it usually happens in Galicia when we cycle, this section is again clearly a leg breaker.
💚 It is a day in which the mixture of emotions accompanies us in every pedal stroke.
🔀 Variants of the Camino and arrival at Arzúa
After passing Ribadiso da Baixo, and after a hard cement ramp, the recovered variants of the Camino appear again.
Left? From the front? Alternative route?
Not to worry: the different routes meet again a few meters ahead.
Thus we arrived in Arzúa, the town where Comercial Lamas Bike, the Bicigrino technical service workshop, is located.
🔧 It is the reference point for those who travel with rental bikes from our network, although any bicigrino pilgrim can receive help or advice if needed.
⛰️ Last stops before Santiago
With our feelings at the surface, we continue through the Galician mountain range, linking Pregontoño, A Peroxa, Calzada, Boavista and Salceda, until we reach the small pass of Santa Irene. Its descent leads us to O Pedrouzo.
The eucalyptus trees continue to escort us, as they did at the beginning of the stage, more than thirty kilometers back.
⛰️ Monte do Gozo: the ultimate test
After passing through Cimadevila, San Paio and Lavacolla, the terrain rises again. It is the turn of Monte do Gozo, a climb that can be hard not so much because of its steepness, but because of the moment in which it appears: at the end of the last day of the Camino.
Here the head, legs and effort management are put to the test. The good news is that the ascent is on asphalt.
From the top, at last, we can see Santiago in the distance. The goal is already real.
🏁 Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
We descend Monte do Gozo next to the highway and, soon after, we enter -excitedly- the historic center of Santiago. Although our arms are shaking and our legs are heavy, we keep our nerve to head for the Plaza del Obradoiro and the imposing Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Nearby is the Pilgrim’s Office, where we received the last stamp and, finally, the Compostela.
🎉 Now yes: we have completed the French Way by bicycle.
🏪 Bicigrino in Santiago
A few meters from the cathedral, right next to the Plaza del Obradoiro, is the Bicigrino point in Santiago, located in the Hospedería San Martín Pinario.
Here the Bicigrinos can:
🚴♂️ Deliver the rental bikes
📦 Manage the transportation of the bikes back home
👕 Purchase the official Bicigrino equipment
In addition, Hospedería San Martín Pinario is an excellent option to stay in Santiago, both for its privileged location and for the tranquility of the building. It also has an inexpensive restaurant, much appreciated by pilgrims, which offers a pilgrim’s menu, ideal for celebrating the arrival without haste.
✨ End of the Road
Enjoy the moment.
Take a deep breath.
You’ve crossed half a continent to get here.
Ultreia. 🚴♂️💛
The best logistics of the Camino de Santiago. We have a hotel next to the cathedral of Santiago as a point of assistance and collection of our rental bicycles.
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