Alto del Perdón and Ermita de Eunate: where the Camino rises to the horizon of the soul ⛰️✨
After leaving Pamplona behind, the Camino de Santiago puts us to the test with one of those stages that combine effort, history and magic in equal parts.
The climb to the Alto del Perdón and the visit to the hermitage of Eunate form an almost sacred binomial on the French Way: one elevates the body, the other elevates the spirit.
🚴 The ascent to the Alto del Perdón
From the upper districts of Pamplona, the Camino climbs gently between rolling fields towards Cizur Menor, and then along country roads towards Zariquiegui, the last village before the mountain.
From there, the slope gets steeper and the terrain becomes stony. Between the murmur of the wind and the sound of the wheels on the gravel, you feel that you are entering the Monte del Perdón, a place full of history and symbolism.
When you reach the top, the effort is rewarded with a breathtaking view: on one side, the valley of Pamplona; on the other, a new horizon that opens towards the Valley of Valdizarbe and Puente la Reina.
It is a physical and emotional turning point, where many pilgrims say “here my Camino really began”.
🌬️ The giants of the wind and the silhouettes of the pilgrims
The windmills, the “giants of the wind” that dominate the landscape of Navarre, spin relentlessly at the top of the mountain. In their shadow stands the iron sculpture of the pilgrims, the work of the artist Vicente Galbete, installed in 1996.
It represents a caravan of pilgrims from different eras advancing together towards Compostela. At its base you can read the inscription:
“Where the path of the wind crosses the path of the stars.”
A few meters away, a circle of stones recalls ancient pre-Christian rituals. Many pilgrims leave a stone there, symbolizing what they wish to leave behind before continuing their journey.
⚠️ Warning: dangerous descent for bicycles
The original descent of Monte del Perdón by the Camino trail is very technical and dangerous for bicycles:
the road is narrow, with loose stones and large boulders,
the slope is steep,
and falls are frequent among inexperienced cyclists.
👉 At Bicigrino we strongly recommend descending by road, taking the paved road that descends gently to Uterga.
The road is longer but much safer and smoother, allowing you to enjoy the scenery without unnecessary risks. From Uterga you can return to the Camino in total comfort.
Detour to the hermitage of Santa María de Eunate
After passing Muruzábal, you reach the point where you can take the detour to the hermitage of Eunate.
⚠️ It is important to know that Eunate is not on the direct route of the French Way, but that you have to take a detour to visit it.
📍 Exact location of the detour:
At the exit of Muruzábal, you will see a well-signposted sign on the right indicating “Eunate“. The detour runs along a rural road for about 2 km between cereal fields until you reach the hermitage, visible in the distance in the middle of the plain.
After the visit, you can return to the same point or link up towards Obanos, where the Camino resumes its route towards Puente la Reina.
🌾 The hermitage of Eunate: mystery and harmony in stone
In the middle of nowhere, surrounded by wheat fields and gravel roads, stands the hermitage of Santa María de Eunate, from the 12th century. Its octagonal floor plan and the exterior cloister of Romanesque arches make it one of the most unique temples on the Camino.
The name Eunate means “one hundred doors” in Basque, and its structure is reminiscent of the Temple of Jerusalem, which has given rise to numerous theories and legends.
Many relate it to the Knights Templar, who protected pilgrims in this area. Others believe it was a Templar hospital or a place of astronomical observation, where sunlight aligns with the arches on specific dates of the year.
Whatever its origin, Eunate has a special energy. The silence there sounds different, and the pilgrims who stop under its arches feel a calm that is difficult to explain.
As evening falls, the golden stone of its walls reflects the sunlight of Navarre as if the temple were breathing.
✨ Two symbols, one teaching
El Alto del Perdón and Eunate are two landmarks that summarize the spirit of the Camino:
The mountain represents effort, overcoming and forgiveness.
The hermitage, introspection, faith and mystery.
In one dominates the wind; in the other, silence.
Both places remind us that the Camino is not only measured in kilometers, but also in what is transformed within each pilgrim.
🚴 Bicigrino tips
Hard climb from Zariquiegui: take it easy; some sections may require pushing the bike.
Descent by road to Uterga: safer and with spectacular views.
Signposted detour in Muruzábal to visit Eunate (2 km one way).
Don’t forget to stamp your credential at the hermitage.
Resume the Camino towards Obanos and Puente la Reina, where the French and Aragonese routes converge.
🌄 A new horizon for your cycling
From the wind of El Perdón to the silence of Eunate, the Camino teaches that every pedal stroke can also be a prayer, every climb a lesson, and every detour an opportunity to discover something that was not on the map.
“Where the path of the wind and the path of the stars cross,
the soul of the pilgrim finds its course.”
Buen Camino, Bicigrino. 🟨🟦
