Stage 09. Caminha – Vigo
Caminha – Vigo
If we have slept in CAMINHA we will only have to look for the ferry pier to cross the river and the border between Portugal and Spain and thus access the population of A GUARDA already in Spanish territory.
Please note that on Sundays the ferry may have few departures and on Monday it does not work. If that happens there is a Taxi boat service that can carry a maximum of 4 bicigrinos and their bicycles:
TAXI MAR, telephone: +351 915 955 827 (in case you need to cross on Monday and the ferry does not work).
If we have crossed to the other side of the river (hopefully if) already when we leave the mouth of the port we will have the first signs of the Camino de Santiago. Here we can already see the typical and genuine monoliths of the Camino de Santiago.
In front of us we will see a rickety, old and great building (Antigo Colexio dos Xesuítas) and next to this building, a street that goes up and that we will have to take.
We head up to a mount of eucalyptus trees between houses and towards a dirt road, mountainous and wooded, that will make us go through a twisty forest area. We will find some stairs and a fountain.
We are skirting around its slopes the SANTA TECLA mountain that stands before the port area and the town of A GUARDA.
This forest route will be short (1 km) and after crossing this wooded mount, the road after skirting the mountain, will take us to the asphalt just in front of the sports area of A GUARDA (soccer field), we will take our left and continue on asphalt until a roundabout marked with a sign (TUI – BAIONA, PO-552) that points to the right .., we will have to continue straight ahead and pass a sign forbidden to pass so as not to lose the arrows on the road .., be careful, as in many other places in this town, the signs of the Camino de Santiago are posted with the mentality of a walker and not taking cyclists into account at all. That is why they will make us advance through streets in a prohibited sense.
We access a main and central street of the town, we come to a Y-shaped fork, we take a right …, at the height of an Santander bank office we must turn left onto a narrow street ( with prohibited direction sign) and therefore against the direction of the cars. If someone needs to stock up we will go past a couple of pharmacies.
When leaving one of these narrow alleys a railing separates an up ramp that we will have to take (to the right) to access the town hall square of A GUARDA and make a sharp turn to the right in our direction of travel. passing in front of the church and looking for the street of San Bernardo that we go up and approach the main road .., but be careful we should not take the road, we continue to our left to reach the height of CAPELA DE SRA. DA GUÍA and after crossing the street we will access an open area on a hillock with views of the sea, some rocks …, we go down to an old laundry where we must pass.
The path leaves us in front of a beautiful rocky path by the sea …, in some sections it is not cyclable and we will have to get off the bike but it is well worth going through this place because it is beautiful.
Here “the road along the coast” takes all its meaning and for many kilometers of today’s stage it will be so.
Thus we will arrive at a curious circular stone construction where just ahead we will have to go to our right along a dirt track and move away from the sea a bit.
A little bit later we traveled parallel to the sea and immediately we climbed at the level of the road to an excellent bike path, where we will travel about 10 kms to OIA and then we will continue pedaling placidly on the flat and by the sea on this magnificent bicycle circuit 17 kms more to BAIONA.
But before arriving at BAIONA we will give you the odd guideline and especially an important one so as not to deviate from this highly recommended route in an area where, in an incomprehensible way, they have recently turned off the road with official signs and arrows on a steep mountain. But that will be a little later …
So we continued where we had stayed ..
Pedaling along the bicycle lane next to the national highway when the time comes, this placid cycling path will end and we will turn left downhill. Here we will take a track and arrive at the town of OIA with its imposing monastery. Right in front of the monastery where we will undoubtedly take a few photos (the view is spectacular) there is a bar where we can have a snack .., we have traveled 20 km of the stage and we have already earned it.
We continue pedaling along tracks near the sea and in a few kilometers we come back to the national highway and again we will travel on the left in a comfortable way and through a very well-equipped place for bicycles.
We will pass in front of the GLASGOW HOTEL, if someone needs accommodation in this area or if they are hungry, in their restaurant we can eat:
Glasgow Hotel Restaurant
Estrada Baiona to guard Nº9
986 36 15 52
We continue on the road when leaving the Glasgow hotel and be careful as when we reach a REPSOL gas station we will have to turn off to the right to travel a little off the road through the municipality of O SERRALLO .., but still We will soon resume the proximity of the PO-552 road that will be our companion in today’s stage.
We go back a few farms and orchards and following the indications of the road signs as I say again we will reach the vicinity of the road. In fact we will pass it and we will drop slightly to the left to go down to the vicinity of some old salt flats and a point that goes into the sea.
We continue pedaling north and fiddling at times with the proximity of the road. In this area we should soon see an imposing windmill on the horizon that will entertain us for a while until we reach its height. We will pass through its parking lot, in front of the CAMPING O MUIÑO that receives its name from the large and imposing mill that we had been seeing for some time from a distance and that we now have in front of us.
Leaving the parking lot of the campsite we are back on the side of the PO-552 national road.
We will pass in front of the O PEÑASCO restaurant with a menu for pilgrims for 10 euros.
RESTAURANTE O PEÑASCO
Porto Mougas, 115, 36308 Oia
986 36 15 65
We are already at almost 30 km of the stage and for the tough second part that awaits us it would be good to conscientiously regain strength either here or in the nearby BAIONA since from there the thing will get complicated and very much .. , being also more difficult to find places to stop to eat.
About 4 km up the road after this restaurant we must pay a LOT OF ATTENTION !!! , next to a white house with a white gate and a roof over the gate, there is a detour to the right that intends to take us up the mountain, away from the road. We must ignore this indication and continue skirting the sea along the bike path towards a hotel that is in a corner tucked against the rocks (HOTEL TALASO ATLANTICO), in front of us on the horizon a huge mountain with a lighthouse on its top ( there it tries to deviate from the path that we climb!) and there I intend with my advice not to climb;)…
Thus, following the road and bordering the mountain, we will access BAIONA through its promenade next to the port and the fortified area, which is one of the main tourist attractions of the city.
In this area we have one of the last opportunities to have a drink in the many restaurants that are next to the beach.
On the BAIONA promenade, just in front of an access walkway to the port and in an office of the Banco de Santander, we must turn right and enter the streets of the center.
We must be very attentive to the signs and this journey through the central streets of the city will seem to us in part an absurd journey and much more when we see that we are taken up an uphill strolling to reach a kind of chapel or monument without much attraction where afterwards it makes us go down again to the sea or the promenade (from where we came quietly and placidly ..)., we would tell you to continue along the promenade without paying much attention and not entering these streets …, but better not, because at the end of the town there is a tangle of roads and crossings that can irretrievably lose us. So even if it is a bit messy, better follow the signs, go up to that chapel and go back down again …
So in our journey through the center of BAIONA we pass through the town hall square, we go straight and turn left onto Calle Conde, we go back to the right (Calle Fuente de Zeta) and we continue on Calle Puerta de La Villa , Rua or Mariñeiro, we came across the monument that the route of the path wanted us to visit “CRUCEIRO STMA. TRINIDADE ”and there we dropped down Rua Loureial Baiona (be careful not to end up on the national road that runs parallel a little further down).
Here our traffic on the road is already quite complicated and we enter a tangle of roads and streets that will take us in the direction of NIGRAN, which must be our reference from now on.
It is well marked with arrows and road signs .., be very careful not to make a mistake at any intersection. Also here we go downhill and at some junction we can be wrong.
Thus we will come to a crossroads where to our left we will see a roundabout and the promenade and beach right there .., but be careful and do not get carried away by the love for the sea .., we must take a street in front of us and move towards a street (with a prohibited direction sign) that will take us up after passing a small bridge over a stream.
In this way we will advance through the residential area paying close attention to the signs and the cars because in some alleys we will be delivered against prohibited directions and cars that circulate contrary to our sense.
In our transfer between alleys we will stop at a roundabout (on the right it goes back towards the highway) and from the front it marks a dead end street which is the one we must take to the front so that soon after it ends up on our beloved National highway PO-552 that crosses the town of SANTA CRISTINA DE RAMALLOSA. .. the way, of course! He delivers us again against a street in the forbidden direction through which we will circulate very carefully so as not to lose sight of the arrows.
A little further on, this street in the forbidden direction makes us turn left and leads us to the road that is next to a kind of marsh. Shortly after we come to the RAMALLOSA bridge, we cross the modern bridge and on our right we will see the old Romanesque stone bridge.
Just as we passed the bridge, we came across a roundabout where we should pay close attention. We have to turn to the right and immediately take a street to the left (again in the forbidden direction!) And that is next to a Banco Pastor office.
We continue straight and uphill .., at the top we meet the PAZO DE PIAS in front where we turn right. We continue to gain height and continue to travel between houses and cars.
We will enter a wooded area and we will cross a kind of bridge or stone door below. .., encased between walls we keep going up … ,. To end at a road junction where in addition to seeing our road signs, we will see a plaque indicating NIGRAN – VIGO, our destination …, and we will take there. On the left, then …
We come across a traffic light and a crossroads .., we go to the right .., and now we are already going down among country houses, granaries and stone walls. A narrow path sandwiched between walls with hanging grape vines will lead us forward.
The route of the road and the arrows will take us out of this beautiful area in descent and will deliver us against a crossroads (on the right) and a roundabout where we can sense a gas station., .. Be careful here we must take a dirt path through a kind of small river park. (Camiño do río, it’s called the place). We will pass some tennis courts and swimming pool and we will come to a road, we must take the right to come across a large roundabout (be careful here the road signs are not well appreciated), we must cross the roundabout and continue straight ahead. ., To be sure that we are doing well, we must pay attention to the white sign that indicates our relatives and to indications to NIGRAN-VIGO by PO-552.
In the middle of the climb do not trust …, a few meters down this main road and at the height of a caravan company (New York caravans), we will turn right. We have before us a mega climb of large ramps and about 5 kms. We are going through NIGRAN. If someone prefers it, you can also continue up the road (go up the national PO-552) that crosses the town and that perhaps allows us to climb a little better on the bikes and “at your own pace”. Be that as it may, the great rush will not be taken away from us.
Up then !!
Our narration continues along the official path.
Behind the caravan company we will cross a small and dense forest, we will go out onto a paved street and there we must turn right. We level in an easterly direction until we reach a crossroads where we must take the left (Camino Volta do Medico), then in a couple of new crossroads, right, right, left we will enter an area cleared of fields, groves and a path wedged between walls .
We are hopelessly approaching the mega rise of the day …, in front of us we can already see it.
Circulating through this urbanization of twisted alleys, walls and vineyards in a small descent (be careful not to pass) just in front of a green gate and a tall palm tree, a dirt track is born in a sharp turn of 90 degrees to the right, which will take us off the street and make us climb up on a mega-ramp overland.
If we get lost at this junction, (you have to leave a narrow street going down a small dirt path and it is very possible) we are going to come across a road and a gate of a PAZO or restaurant (PAZO DE URZAIZ ). Go back and look for the way up … if we continue we will lose ourselves for sure. If that happens, the advice is to find our beloved and well-known national highway PO-552 and take it in the VIGO direction.
The dirt road, if we have known how to find it, will leave us at the top on a concrete track to face the last ramps and go out to an urbanization where we can already rest a bit and begin to level and go down.
We will arrive at our dear and esteemed PO-552 and we must turn right. If we want to remain faithful to the road and to the arrows a few meters from going out onto the road, we will pass in front of a pharmacy and to the right along a street the road will turn off the road.
If we want to be practical and go to the idea (in this area we will already be quite tired and a little fed up) the advice is to take the road because later on other sections of the road come very difficult and a little absurd that will make us take a lot height through some very high and somewhat complicated mountains to then go down again to find the road …, from this point much better if you prefer to continue by road because we will find the road signs later on the same national PO-552 and we will avoid this absurd and hard loop through the mountain.
If we have taken the little loop after the pharmacy on the right we are going to go out to a roundabout again on PO-552 and here we have our last chance to save the complicated stretch of mountain.
Whoever wants to follow the arrows will be able to keep looking for them .., whoever wants to be advised, we will guide you from here on the road and we will ignore the road signs.
If someone can download the GPS track in this section it will be appreciated to have it.
We are at ORXÁS kilometer 50 of the stage and we are going to travel through the national highway without seeing our beloved road signs for approximately 5 kilometers. Even here we have the advantage over the other route that climbs a super high mountain, preferably going flat and downhill.
Shortly after passing through the plate that indicates the CORUXO population on the road, we should pay attention to this sign and a little further on to see its church on the same road on our left. As we pass the church we will be on the path again and that will mean that it is very important to pay attention to the road signs again to enter VIGO without getting lost.
It was a stretch that seems short and easy explained by the road and by the mountain, it would have been a real hell and waste of strength.
We continue moving along the national highway and we have already passed some roundabouts. Right where is the end plate of the population of CORUXO. If we pay attention to our left we will see a DIY store named: TENHOME BRICO, a little further on and in front, we will have to exit through a narrow street on the right.
GUIDELINES TO KNOW IF WE HAVE BEEN WRONG : If we pass the entrance sign to SAN ANDRES DE COMESAÑA following the road .., if we go downhill and we see a Citroen dealer on our left and a Lexus dealer on our right…, if that happens we have passed, the detour to the right is further up.
So, if we have taken the correct detour, we will go down between industrial warehouses and we will be located below the highway that we will literally cross under its bridges.
When leaving this area below the highway we will find a dirt track that we will have to take (on our right), we will end up on a narrow concrete track and we will now travel through urbanizations of houses and orchards to the very center of VIGO .., in a constant up and down .. ravine above and ravine below .., junctions and more junctions where we will have to pay special attention not to miss the arrows. The orography of this area is very broken with constant ups and downs and this mixed with the urban area will stress us out a bit.
The narrow track below the bridge leaves us at a height where we will pass in front of a church and a park (we have turned right).
We will not notice because we will be encased in narrow alleys and going up and down hills through the area of residential houses, orchards …, we will go through a small tunnel to cross the highway below …, what we are doing if we could see our route to Bird’s eye view is skirting the huge car factory in this area of the city.
We will come to a stop and along a slightly wide avenue we will access by turning to the left to the IGLESIA DE MATAMÁ where a sharp turn to the left will give us a drop where we continue to wander, downhill much attention .., sharp turns by alleys where we can pass .., pay close attention to the arrows and signs .., we will arrive by a very steep descent to a kind of trough that will deliver us against a large gray fence .., we will follow it for a few meters ( the fence will be on our left) and at the end of the fence we will have to continue skirting and enter a narrow, abandoned-looking alley … with cables and high-voltage poles over our heads …, when we reach the end of this alley, after having skirted all this gray fence, we will end up in a kind of funnel between two fences (be careful, it is very narrow and cars may come against us)…, this alley ends in a wide avenue where to our left We will see the Celta de Vigo football stadium.
Here we leave the road for tomorrow and those who follow the advice to stay the night at HOTEL HESPERIA DE VIGO, should go to the stadium, when they reach their height, turn right, go straight, take the street on the right and in the background is the hotel.
Those looking for another place to sleep in VIGO, in this area there is not much more offer of accommodation .., follow the signs of the road …, we will arrive at a park that we will have to cross inside, go up some hills and go down to the other side of the mountain by urbanizations and in the constant evolution of houses and buildings (VIGO is a very dispersed and somewhat chaotic city) we will arrive at the area near the port (it could be said that this is the center) where we will find more accommodation.
In the next stage we will continue explaining in detail the route from the fence of the car factory that is where we left it today …
To rest … today’s stage lasts with the complicated end. Deserved rest. If someone needs technical assistance very close to here is the bicycle store (Specialized concept store) where they can help us. Que Bici Concept store Specialized Av. De Castrelos, 186, 36210 Vigo 886 11 75 38
Reflection on the Stage
Placid and calm stage at the beginning but with a fireworks ending.
The passage of the river with the ferry will make us leave with renewed spirit .., the many kilometers along the coast through idyllic paths and super comfortable bike lane for the bicycle will make us enjoy if the day and the weather are good … but once we go from Baiona onwards we will enter a labyrinthine area, with hard ups and downs … and the worst will come at the end when we are delivered against a huge city, scattered and in my view poorly organized .., reaching Vigo depends on Where we want to go or even cross it if we plan to pass it can become quite a challenge.
Our advice is to stay in this city to rest and distribute precisely the complicated part of the stage that is to cross it between the arrival of today and the departure of tomorrow .., with that we will make it more entertaining and bearable your journey.
Calle Donantes de Sangre, 2836789
+034 986 19 94 65
Rúa Galicia, 91, Local A36780
+034 986 61 08 07
Av. Ramón y Cajal, 1436300 Baiona
+034 686 45 45 07
Rúa Manuel Lemos, 16
36370 Nigrán, Pontevedra
+034 986 35 02 51
Estrada Pola Vía, 118
36350 Vilamean, Nigran
+034 986 36 67 33
|Que Bici(Concept store Specialized)|
Av. de Castrelos, 186
+034 886 11 75 38
|Bici O Con|
Bajada Pontillón, 40
+034 986 29 71 02